Anyone here really? What? A timing light just for us.

[acerc]

Well, I guess Milton was having a bad day, I bought a sensor tester and got an ignition tester. He said he'll get the right one out tomorrow.

 

[49dimes]

I'm for good days even if I'm having a bad one. I'm sure Milton feels the same.

 

[acerc]

I finally figured out how to do the timing and the 3W is dead on 28°. Woo Hoo!

 

[Snoopy1]

I finally figured out how to do the timing and the 3W is dead on 28°. Woo Hoo!

Ok great let us know how you did it?

 

[acerc]

To be quite honest, I'm not sure. I have someone far smarter than me looking into how the light works. All I know is it worked and I'm done with the Ultimate for a while anyway.

 

[acerc]

Ok, as you all know I found out the new RCEXCEL ignitions have to be turned faster to be activated. This makes the previous method of timing an engine impossible to do so I started down the rabbit hole to make a timing light. Well, I did make one and it worked really well although I do not know exactly how. My jumbled up wiring with a battery and an led was not very pleasant. But I recently come to know someone capable of taking what I discovered and doing something more with it. So if I may I would like to introduce the prototype timing light, a HighPoint production. All one does is install two AAA batteries and hook it up to the Hall sensor, of course the plugs have to be removed for easy rotation and the timing marks made on the prop hub and engine case as usual. I use a drill on the prop shaft to spin the engine and watch the timing marks, the flashing will highlight the marks just like timing an automotive engine.

 

[Snoopy1]

Ok, as you all know I found out the new RCEXCEL ignitions have to be turned faster to be activated. This makes the previous method of timing an engine impossible to do so I started down the rabbit hole to make a timing light. Well, I did make one and it worked really well although I do not know exactly how. My jumbled up wiring with a battery and an led was not very pleasant. But I recently come to know someone capable of taking what I discovered and doing something more with it. So if I may I would like to introduce the prototype timing light, a HighPoint production. All one does is install two AAA batteries and hook it up to the Hall sensor, of course the plugs have to be removed for easy rotation and the timing marks made on the prop hub and engine case as usual. I use a drill on the prop shaft to spin the engine and watch the timing marks, the flashing will highlight the marks just like timing an automotive engine.

Is this going to be made or does it exist.

 

[acerc]

I have the one I made which is hideous and there is the prototype HighPoint made, so there are two that exist. I do not know if they will be produced for sell, I guess it depends on the interest in it. I personally find it very easy to use and much more accurate as it is working in more of a real world setting.
If HighPoint decides not to sell them I will post my method of making it and how I use it.
I would suggest if you are interested send them an email protunestick@gmail.com and ask about it.

 

[49dimes]

How much more accurate would you say it is compared to just placing the sensor directly over the magnet with the correct timing marks aligned on the crank case and prop hub?

 

[acerc]

Just so happens earlier today I was playing with it and tried it on the DLE 111 in the PAU Ultimate. The DLE was timed the normal way, at 28°, and ran just fine but when I lit it up with the timing light it was at 24° degree's. So I repositioned the Hall so that the 28° mark lined up with the light, then fired it up to see if there was any difference. I do not know for sure but it did feel like it had a little better throttle response.
I guess timing by hand places a different pull with the magnet than a higher speed pass. Or it could be that with the light it is instantaneous instead of watching for the plug to spark and then stopping rotation. All I know is I like this much better than the old way and as long as one put's the 28° mark at 28° it will indeed be dead on, not just close.