pawnshopmike
Staff member
Assembly: AJ Aircraft ARS300 104" 120cc!
- Thread starter Terryscustom
- Start date
Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
Finally getting a start on this bad boy. I laid out all the hardware to keep things organized. Landing gear is pretty straight forward. Make sure the rake of the gear and the fat side of the airfoil is forward. Install the gear with the filler plate.
There are some screws included to install the cuffs and you can use those but I prefer to use some 4-40 x 3/8" screws. If you use the stock screws apply some oil and install them slowly, if you feel resistance stop and reassess before the screw breaks off. If you use some 4-40's run a tap through the hole and install the 4-40 with a drop of CA on the threads.
Install one wheel collar with thread lock on the inside using the wheel pant as a reference for where to center the wheel. It's not a bad idea to take out the screws on the wheel and re-install them with a little thread-locker. Install the wheel and grind a small flat spot on the outside of the axle as a place for the wheel collar nut to seat to.
Install the wheels with the nylock nut and install the wheel pants with the 4-40 screws. It's a good idea to use bonded washers for the wheel pants or use liberal thread locker so they do not come loose.
For the tail-wheel it's a good idea to pull all the wheel collar nuts out and re-install with some thread-locker. Then install the tail wheel with bolts, washers and thread lock.
There are some screws included to install the cuffs and you can use those but I prefer to use some 4-40 x 3/8" screws. If you use the stock screws apply some oil and install them slowly, if you feel resistance stop and reassess before the screw breaks off. If you use some 4-40's run a tap through the hole and install the 4-40 with a drop of CA on the threads.
Install one wheel collar with thread lock on the inside using the wheel pant as a reference for where to center the wheel. It's not a bad idea to take out the screws on the wheel and re-install them with a little thread-locker. Install the wheel and grind a small flat spot on the outside of the axle as a place for the wheel collar nut to seat to.
Install the wheels with the nylock nut and install the wheel pants with the 4-40 screws. It's a good idea to use bonded washers for the wheel pants or use liberal thread locker so they do not come loose.
For the tail-wheel it's a good idea to pull all the wheel collar nuts out and re-install with some thread-locker. Then install the tail wheel with bolts, washers and thread lock.
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Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
Next I prepared all my radio equipment and servos, wires, etc. I installed all of the control surface horns at the same time.
Using a fresh exacto blade I opened the servo bays and all control horn locations for the wings, stabs and rudder.
I sorted the horns and installed the correct ball link after sanding the end of the horns to receive glue. Make sure to install a set for both right and left. Also for the wings install the bolts for the inner horns in the lower hole and the outer bolts in the middle hole. These may move out one hole depending on your setup but I'm starting here since you always want the smallest servo arm to do the job, keeping in mind that the servo horn ALWAYS needs to be equal or smaller than the distance from the hinge-line to the ball link.
Using epoxy install the horns and remove any excess with denatured alcohol. It's a great idea to use actual denatured alcohol instead of rubbing alcohol, as rubbing alcohol is a large percent water where denatured is pure and works better.
Using a fresh exacto blade I opened the servo bays and all control horn locations for the wings, stabs and rudder.
I sorted the horns and installed the correct ball link after sanding the end of the horns to receive glue. Make sure to install a set for both right and left. Also for the wings install the bolts for the inner horns in the lower hole and the outer bolts in the middle hole. These may move out one hole depending on your setup but I'm starting here since you always want the smallest servo arm to do the job, keeping in mind that the servo horn ALWAYS needs to be equal or smaller than the distance from the hinge-line to the ball link.
Using epoxy install the horns and remove any excess with denatured alcohol. It's a great idea to use actual denatured alcohol instead of rubbing alcohol, as rubbing alcohol is a large percent water where denatured is pure and works better.
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Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
I started a new program on my transmitter for this plane . I use a "base program" on my transmitter that has all my typical mixes, switches, rates, etc. etc. etc. all set up for me. I have several of these "base" programs set up on my transmitter for various plane types. I highly HIGHLY recommend this as you are never using one plane to start a new plane. With the complexity of the radios now there are just too many things to clear off but copying an old plane.
OK, now with that lesson over......
I set up my rudder servo for a pull pull arm. The ARS300 is not equipped for a tail rudder servo location due to CG constraints. The plane requires a 3.5" pull pull arm and if it is straight or offset depends on how well you installed the rudder horn. My rudder horn installed with the bolts just behind the hinge-line so I used an offset arm location.
Use double wire clamps on each end of both wires and it's a good idea to put a little heat shrink over them for further protection. Wires to the tail are crossed. The goal with ALL servos is the use ZERO SUB TRIM. I don't care what anyone says, sub-trim is not good especially if you are using more than a couple points. Always take the time to get zero sub trims and the best mechanical setup possible and you will be rewarded.
After installing the servo I installed the rudder itself using the wire and installed a servo screw to lock the wire. Next install the wire hardware out on the back side.
Wires need to be tight in the middle / center location of the servo. They should also remain snug at full deflection and throughout the range of travel. If they do not remain tight, reassess your setup and modify accordingly to make a good setup.
OK, now with that lesson over......
I set up my rudder servo for a pull pull arm. The ARS300 is not equipped for a tail rudder servo location due to CG constraints. The plane requires a 3.5" pull pull arm and if it is straight or offset depends on how well you installed the rudder horn. My rudder horn installed with the bolts just behind the hinge-line so I used an offset arm location.
Use double wire clamps on each end of both wires and it's a good idea to put a little heat shrink over them for further protection. Wires to the tail are crossed. The goal with ALL servos is the use ZERO SUB TRIM. I don't care what anyone says, sub-trim is not good especially if you are using more than a couple points. Always take the time to get zero sub trims and the best mechanical setup possible and you will be rewarded.
After installing the servo I installed the rudder itself using the wire and installed a servo screw to lock the wire. Next install the wire hardware out on the back side.
Wires need to be tight in the middle / center location of the servo. They should also remain snug at full deflection and throughout the range of travel. If they do not remain tight, reassess your setup and modify accordingly to make a good setup.
