Joe Hunt
150cc
Ah, come on. haha
I know, I know. haha
Yes, nice improvement, for sure!
Assembly: EF 110" Yak-54 V2
- Thread starter Joe Hunt
- Start date
Ah, come on. haha
I know, I know. haha
Yes, nice improvement, for sure!
Joe Hunt
150cc
I think I'll always do the hinge gaps now, though mine don't look nearly as clean as yours
Yup, they work! Thanks on my gaps... I really rushed those, I was not in the mood. haha Normally I'll measure and mark and use a hole punch for all the hinges... comes out real nice. That day I was just "over it all." haha
Joe Hunt
150cc
Off topic, again. haha
I heard from @Tavis and from Steve @ Chief Aircraft that the Boyesen reeds from Ed @ www.fastcarbs.com make a huge difference on the DLE-170. So, since I do everything Tavis tells me to do, haha, I picked some up and will be changing them soon. I'll keep you posted. My DLE-170 did start back firing like people said it might. I'm checking the pickup sensor as that's what www.rcextremepower.net says is likely the case. If that's not it I'll try the ignition...
I heard from @Tavis and from Steve @ Chief Aircraft that the Boyesen reeds from Ed @ www.fastcarbs.com make a huge difference on the DLE-170. So, since I do everything Tavis tells me to do, haha, I picked some up and will be changing them soon. I'll keep you posted. My DLE-170 did start back firing like people said it might. I'm checking the pickup sensor as that's what www.rcextremepower.net says is likely the case. If that's not it I'll try the ignition...
Joe Hunt
150cc
Okay, got to working on this DLE 170. I changed the reeds to the Boyesen reeds I got from Ed @ www.fastcarbs.com. The stock reeds are stiffer and clear, these are more yellow. While I was in there I noticed that the impulse port hole was basically around 50% blocked. Partially by the gasket and mostly by the metal plate that holds down the reeds. I got out a small round file and went to work on it. The carb only uses the one side, so in the pic you'll see the hole on the right is stock and 50% blocked, the hole on the left is the one I worked on and it's wide open.
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Joe Hunt
150cc
Oh, the back firing was cured by adjusting the sensor. Milton at www.rcextremepower.net said there was a run of bad sensors a year ago. He said people were back firing with those bad sensors. That you could test by turning the prop through and seeing when the plug fired (having removed the caps and then put a plug in one of them). If the plug fired when the magnet was entering under the sensor, in that case the sensor was bad. That the plug should fire when the magnet was exiting the sensor. I have a couple of new sensors on order. But, meanwhile I unscrewed my entrance sensor screw a little, and tightened up my exit sensor screw a bit. After that the plug would fire on magnet exit, rather than on magnet entrance. I flew five flights after that with no backfiring while priming or starting. Prior to that adjustment it was backfiring constantly while priming and starting.
I learned something new in the process... that RCEXEL ignitions fire when the magnet goes under the sensor... at any speed. You can turn it through as slow as you want and it will fire. It also fires once every time you turn on the ignition. So, I'll keep that in mind so as not to start it up when I'm not planning on starting it up.
I learned something new in the process... that RCEXEL ignitions fire when the magnet goes under the sensor... at any speed. You can turn it through as slow as you want and it will fire. It also fires once every time you turn on the ignition. So, I'll keep that in mind so as not to start it up when I'm not planning on starting it up.
Joe Hunt
150cc
Okay, this has nothing to do with the Yak54, haha, but I went flying tonight and the work on the DLE-170 paid off. Starts like a DA and runs great... way more power. This thing really sips the fuel, too... I could probably fly 20+ minutes on a 50-oz tank. :O
About the EF 110" Yak54... the included pilot is really big (same one that EF sends out with the 125" Extra, I think). And, doesn't really fit. Now the G-Force pilots are super cool and I have the 42% version in my 122" Extra. But, I wish its head was a little bigger so it would look more scale. Turns out that pilot fits in the 110" yak54, and the EF pilot has a bigger head and looks more scale in the 122" Extra. But, it's not nearly as cool as the G-Force pilot. So, I'm trying to decide if I can get along with the EF Pilot in my 122" Extra, or if I'm going to order another G-Force Pilot. :O lol
About the EF 110" Yak54... the included pilot is really big (same one that EF sends out with the 125" Extra, I think). And, doesn't really fit. Now the G-Force pilots are super cool and I have the 42% version in my 122" Extra. But, I wish its head was a little bigger so it would look more scale. Turns out that pilot fits in the 110" yak54, and the EF pilot has a bigger head and looks more scale in the 122" Extra. But, it's not nearly as cool as the G-Force pilot. So, I'm trying to decide if I can get along with the EF Pilot in my 122" Extra, or if I'm going to order another G-Force Pilot. :O lol
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Joe Hunt
150cc
Okay, got back to the Yak54 for a couple of hours tonight. I'm going to use my 42% G-Force pilot in it. I still need to build a 1" tall box to go under him so that he can see over the cowl when he's flying! So, I figured that out, and that is the hardest part. haha
I finished up the little bit of cosmetic work I did inside the fuse, just trying to make it look a little more fancy.
I still need to build a 1" tall box to go under him so that he can see over the cowl when he's flying! So, I figured that out, and that is the hardest part. hahaI finished up the little bit of cosmetic work I did inside the fuse, just trying to make it look a little more fancy.
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Joe Hunt
150cc
I was thinking to just use a 6014 receiver, without any power distribution (especially with these 9380 servos, they just don't use any power). But, at the same time I didn't want the switches to be a power bottleneck. So, I'm thinking I'll go with this SmartFly Micro power expander and failsafe electronic switch.
