Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
If you look at Matty Matts Pitts build he painted Nason single stage directly over Solartex with great results. To get it glass smooth in the past we always primed it first, but that does add weight.
Sport Beautifying the Beast
- Thread starter Krazy Kanuk
- Start date
Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
Soooooo, in other words.....order a test sample, cover something and paint it to see!!!
Added to shopping list......
Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
That's what I'm going to on my scratch build project for the wings and tail surfaces. It's been awhile since I've used it so I need to test it with the paint I'm using now a days.Soooooo, in other words.....order a test sample, cover something and paint it to see!!!
Krazy Kanuk
50cc
RUDDER CONTROL
I am using an item that I've used in the past on several of my 100cc sized planes. It's a Carbon Fiber Rudder tray from SDS Hobbies. The cost is $20.00. Don't be fooled by the size recommendation, it's much stronger than you might think.
http://www.sdshobby.com/servo-access...-airplane.html
For servo control I went with just one Savox 2230 servo from Thunderbolt RC. 500 inch ounces at 6 volts.
http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.p...oducts_id=1652
The servo and tray weight 180 grams (6 1/4 ounces). By using only one servo I saved 3 1/4 ounces. I'm sure the weight I save now will be consumed when I paint this beast!
I am using an item that I've used in the past on several of my 100cc sized planes. It's a Carbon Fiber Rudder tray from SDS Hobbies. The cost is $20.00. Don't be fooled by the size recommendation, it's much stronger than you might think.
http://www.sdshobby.com/servo-access...-airplane.html
For servo control I went with just one Savox 2230 servo from Thunderbolt RC. 500 inch ounces at 6 volts.
http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.p...oducts_id=1652
The servo and tray weight 180 grams (6 1/4 ounces). By using only one servo I saved 3 1/4 ounces. I'm sure the weight I save now will be consumed when I paint this beast!
Bartman
Defender of the Noob!
Krazy Kanuk
50cc
If you click on the web site a detail picture of the construction pops up.
www.sdshobby.com/servo-accessory/servos-accessories/rudder-mounts-sets/carbon-fiber-vertical-rudder-mount-rudder-tray-set-for-20-50cc-airplane.html
www.sdshobby.com/servo-accessory/servos-accessories/rudder-mounts-sets/carbon-fiber-vertical-rudder-mount-rudder-tray-set-for-20-50cc-airplane.html
Krazy Kanuk
50cc
STAB and ELEVATOR
I've copied the same attachment system as used by Hanger 9 on the Fin and Rudder. I am using Flat Hinges instead of the fake Robart hinges that were installed by Hanger 9. This is a lot more work BUT it now gives me the flexibility to remove an elevator and do repairs. It's much easier than if I had to cut off the Robart hinge, burn them out and then reassemble it.
I pinned the outer and inner flat hinges with round toothpicks for that extra security so that the hinges can never pull out. The tiny toothpicks weigh nothing and are easy to sand smooth when the job is done.
I also used bamboo skewers to pin the four corners of each elevator. It's a good thing that I have removed the covering as I found two joints that the glue had let go. If I had not done these upgrades the left elevator would have definitely had a lot of flex in it.
The flat hinges do allow for a massive amount of deflection (much more than my flying skills will ever need!).
I've copied the same attachment system as used by Hanger 9 on the Fin and Rudder. I am using Flat Hinges instead of the fake Robart hinges that were installed by Hanger 9. This is a lot more work BUT it now gives me the flexibility to remove an elevator and do repairs. It's much easier than if I had to cut off the Robart hinge, burn them out and then reassemble it.
I pinned the outer and inner flat hinges with round toothpicks for that extra security so that the hinges can never pull out. The tiny toothpicks weigh nothing and are easy to sand smooth when the job is done.
I also used bamboo skewers to pin the four corners of each elevator. It's a good thing that I have removed the covering as I found two joints that the glue had let go. If I had not done these upgrades the left elevator would have definitely had a lot of flex in it.
The flat hinges do allow for a massive amount of deflection (much more than my flying skills will ever need!).
Krazy Kanuk
50cc
ELEVATOR SERVO CONTROL
Since I plan on using Solertex and painting this plane, I want to lighten the tail as much as possible.
So I stole an idea I saw on Al Walker's big 150cc plane (I think and Extra made in Germany) where he had mounted both elevator servos underneath the canopy.
I got some Carbon Fiber tubing that would allow the un-threaded part of a 4-40 rod to just barely slide in. I ground some notches into the un-threaded rod and liberally coated it with JB Weld. This made an assembly that is super stiff and impossible to pull apart.
To control the CF Tubing from flexing, I installed two nylon linear guides placed inside the back of the fuselage. I attached these guides by drilling tiny holes at various angels into the backside of the nylon guide and secured them with JB Weld. These nylon guides are from an old style of hinge system that would allow you to quickly disconnect the elevator from the stab. I've had them for 20 years and have no idea who made them. But the fit for the CF tubing was perfect, and being nylon they act as a self lubricating junction.
I mounted the Elevator Servo on a CF tray, identical to the one used for the Rudder Servo.
By using this technique I have moved 6 1/2 ounces from the tail to a position much closer to the CG of the airplane. The forward displacement of the two servos from the tail is 34 1/2 inches. That's a whopping change!
Since I plan on using Solertex and painting this plane, I want to lighten the tail as much as possible.
So I stole an idea I saw on Al Walker's big 150cc plane (I think and Extra made in Germany) where he had mounted both elevator servos underneath the canopy.
I got some Carbon Fiber tubing that would allow the un-threaded part of a 4-40 rod to just barely slide in. I ground some notches into the un-threaded rod and liberally coated it with JB Weld. This made an assembly that is super stiff and impossible to pull apart.
To control the CF Tubing from flexing, I installed two nylon linear guides placed inside the back of the fuselage. I attached these guides by drilling tiny holes at various angels into the backside of the nylon guide and secured them with JB Weld. These nylon guides are from an old style of hinge system that would allow you to quickly disconnect the elevator from the stab. I've had them for 20 years and have no idea who made them. But the fit for the CF tubing was perfect, and being nylon they act as a self lubricating junction.
I mounted the Elevator Servo on a CF tray, identical to the one used for the Rudder Servo.
By using this technique I have moved 6 1/2 ounces from the tail to a position much closer to the CG of the airplane. The forward displacement of the two servos from the tail is 34 1/2 inches. That's a whopping change!
