IMAC Double Build, Carden Pro 124" Extra 300 40%

[HRRC Flyer]

I'm following this thread for sure, but I will not be of much help with the building.

If you guys are talking about the same Dennis I think you are, I found it a little disappointing when I went to his website the other day and found that he only sells this kit now. Oh well, such is life.

David

 

[orthobird]

From tha manual:


N. Cut and install 1/8” Dowel Pins at F-1 and L.G. Mount.


From my actual procedure:
for each motor box, the pins for the landing gear hard wood support and for the F1 sides, are same length, about 3/4". there will be a total of 12 of these per motorbox. the 1/8" dowels, for the front of the motorbox, 3 on each side, total of 6, are 1" long.
Additionally, I added these #8 screws, also epoxied them in as well.

 

[orthobird]

From the manual:

0. Install F-2 at both sides of Motor Box.

 

[orthobird]

Nice CAM, I'm looking forward to hearing how they compare to the Dalton!

Also interested in your take on the ZDZ 224!

I hope I can get one. I will let you all know if I do.

 

[pawnshopmike]

Holy smokes Cam. You are a building machine!

 

[BalsaDust]

Looks good. If they brought the Cap back I would be all over it. My current 30% flys great but it's 18lbs dry. I think it could be built right and come in around 16-1/2lbs and become one hell of a 3D bird.

 

[orthobird]

From the manual: (the next step for me)


2. Drill Four #8 Holes in the Landing Gear Pilot holes in the L.G. Mount. Use a drill press. Mark and

drill through the L.G. Mount and ½” by ½” Hardwood with a #8 tap drill. Tap for 8-32 x 4 Socket Head Cap Screws. Nuts are not required.


this is what I did (so far):

used a ruler and a angle to determine where the landing gear needs to go, and then did measurements til i fugured out what was square.

i then marked where I thought, the holes would be or should be:

here it is, after drilling and tapping, and I am satisfied with this, however......

You can probably read my mind. I am itching to put an aluminum angle in there, with a aircraft quality plywood and blind nuts to finish it off. Just do not trust leaving that alone, but I am crazy like that....

 

[jhelber08]

Dang, you're an airplane building machine! Look forward to following this one.

 

[orthobird]

Not much to report here for the day. I was obtaining information regarding the next step. And now, I can proceed.

From the manual:

4. Build the Truss side over the Plans. (3/8” sq. and 3/8” x 1/2” Vertical Braces are pre-cut) Install the Fuse Socket Supports. We line up the socket hole over the Plans and mark the Truss Sides for an accurate

Using the Socket Support as a guide, mark the Socket hole on the 1/8” Balsa Fuse Side. Cut the Socket

hole in the 1/8” Balsa using a Circle Cutter or Dremel. Properly position and glue the 1/8” Balsa Fuse Side to the Truss. Trial fit the Motor Box and Fuse Sides upside down over the Top View Plan. Line up the Motor Box so F-2 matches the Top View Plan. Make sure to position the Motor Box so the Top Plate hangs over the front of your building board so the Box can sit level with the Fuse Sides. Sand the taper on the front and back edge of the Fuse Side to match the Plans. Complete steps 5, 6, & 7 in this position.

however, before even doing this step, the longerons need to be made. These are made from the 3/8" x 3/8" x 48" length balsa square sticks. The kit comes with this:

this is a bundle of 20 of these sticks. The manual , clearly states, to use the red tipped sticks for the longerons, as these are higher density. The standard sticks weigh 0.05#, and the red ones weigh 0.06#

being that they need to be spliced, you will need to do this:

"Splice two red ended sticks for each top longeron. (F-2 to F-6) Splice one red stick with a non-red stick for the bottom longeron. Begin with the harder end of this bottom longeron at F-2."

and then, " Any of the harder red stick stock scrap can be best used on longer X-brace spans."

SO here we go, I am just preparing for Step #4.


I got two sticks red tipped, and labelled them, did the same to another set, and then the last 2 were paired with the lower density balsa sticks.

This is a rough cut scarf joint, made with the band saw.

it was then taken to the circular sander, and made flush and even.

Here is the joint (if you can see it)

next step, is to glue it with 30 minute epoxy, and then I will make the same set for airplane #2.

 

[Rusty 73]

Nice splice on the joints , it remind me of when i had to build a rib section in Aircraft Maintenance for one of the classes many decades ago .
I had to be exact on the cuts before joining them together just as you are . It is a very hard and extremely strong type of spurce that is this used in fabric covered aircraft . You have got a lot of work ahead of you .