IMAC Double Build, Carden Pro 124" Extra 300 40%
- Thread starter orthobird
- Start date
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- 40% airplane build thread imac
Smart minds think the sameThese are some final pictures on the build of the Fuselage #1. The airplane is all balanced at 3.75" aft of the LE of the wing tip.
Pictures of the control rods for all the surfaces.
the rods are all solid 6-32 rods, with carbon fiber tubes glued over them. Using DUBRO monster ball links for 6-32 screws and the pushrod is also 6-32 thread.
ok, this is a unique set up, for this airplane, so that I never lose the elevator leads inside the fuselage. I have made these plug in connections, for both the wings and the stabs. If I go to a contest that is very far, I will not take my trailer (8 MPG, vs 20 MPG with no trailer). SO the airplane will fit in my SUV if I remove the stabs.
these are soldering boards for MPX plugs, the 6 pin versions.
First, I solder the pins to the board. I made it so both sides of the board are same direction. I will not be using if for a battery plug, in which case, you would want to flip it. you can see, one side border has + and the other has -.
Trust me on this....
here is the back side of it plugged in. I also recommend you solder everything on it, with it plugged in, so that the pins do not melt in the plastic. also, to assure the polarity of the leads is correct.
Here it is unplugged.
Now, I have soldered the servo leads. this plug is for a single servo, but it has total of 6 pins. I wanted to use 2 pins per lead, to increase the current flow, and decrease resistance. (redundancy)
I have soldered one wire to two pads on the board.
Before going any further, I tested this, before plugging in one of the high dollars servos.
1st, I brought out my current tester, and used the resistance option, placed one probe on one solder pad, then went to other side, and assured it only had current flow into the other side of the plug's corresponding color lead. After doing this, all was good. I checked everything both ways and more than once.
Then, I connected the old servo tester.. using an old servo, and a LIFE battery, I ran it, and checked it, and all was good:
following this, I then covered everything using the shrink tubing, and now, time to install.
The female plug gets installed into the tail of the fuselage.
the stab is brought onto the fuselage,
I plug the servo lead in....
Push the stab all the way in,,,
And now, it is ready to fix the stab to the fuselage side with 2 screws, 6-32.
After this, I have turned on the radio, and sure enough, no funny burnt smell!!! LOL!! We've all been there. Well, that did not happen. Everything worked!!
She is ready now. Time to work on the orange and white one and finish her off.
I also need to start practicing my routine. Time is of the essence now.
Pictures of the control rods for all the surfaces.
the rods are all solid 6-32 rods, with carbon fiber tubes glued over them. Using DUBRO monster ball links for 6-32 screws and the pushrod is also 6-32 thread.
ok, this is a unique set up, for this airplane, so that I never lose the elevator leads inside the fuselage. I have made these plug in connections, for both the wings and the stabs. If I go to a contest that is very far, I will not take my trailer (8 MPG, vs 20 MPG with no trailer). SO the airplane will fit in my SUV if I remove the stabs.
these are soldering boards for MPX plugs, the 6 pin versions.
First, I solder the pins to the board. I made it so both sides of the board are same direction. I will not be using if for a battery plug, in which case, you would want to flip it. you can see, one side border has + and the other has -.
Trust me on this....
here is the back side of it plugged in. I also recommend you solder everything on it, with it plugged in, so that the pins do not melt in the plastic. also, to assure the polarity of the leads is correct.
Here it is unplugged.
Now, I have soldered the servo leads. this plug is for a single servo, but it has total of 6 pins. I wanted to use 2 pins per lead, to increase the current flow, and decrease resistance. (redundancy)
I have soldered one wire to two pads on the board.
Before going any further, I tested this, before plugging in one of the high dollars servos.
1st, I brought out my current tester, and used the resistance option, placed one probe on one solder pad, then went to other side, and assured it only had current flow into the other side of the plug's corresponding color lead. After doing this, all was good. I checked everything both ways and more than once.
Then, I connected the old servo tester.. using an old servo, and a LIFE battery, I ran it, and checked it, and all was good:
following this, I then covered everything using the shrink tubing, and now, time to install.
The female plug gets installed into the tail of the fuselage.
the stab is brought onto the fuselage,
I plug the servo lead in....
Push the stab all the way in,,,
And now, it is ready to fix the stab to the fuselage side with 2 screws, 6-32.
After this, I have turned on the radio, and sure enough, no funny burnt smell!!! LOL!! We've all been there. Well, that did not happen. Everything worked!!
She is ready now. Time to work on the orange and white one and finish her off.
I also need to start practicing my routine. Time is of the essence now.
pawnshopmike
Staff member
Robotech
70cc twin V2
Just a thought. I would consider keeping the female JR connector. If you lose a servo at a contest, it would make a needed servo change easier and quicker. Unless you plan to have a pre-soldered replacement servo in your box.