Dual BuildNew PAU 35cc Edge and 35cc Extra

[Tseres]

I spent this afternoon on the Extra. So far I have the covering shrunk. All the control horns glued in. The hinge pins on the stab and vertical fin are epoxied in.

Jusrt a couple of things of interest. On the Extra I had tocut one step off of the bottom of the control horns for the Elevator to keep them from sticking out the top. The Edge did not need this done. Second. there are 2 different kinds of ball ends the one with the step on each side of the pivot ball is the one you need to use to space the control horns. The other style goes on the servo side.

After supper I'll epoxy the hinge pins into the wings and let them sit overningt.

 

[ericb]

Looks good. Thanks for the pics of the fuse.

 

[bigblueswope]

Is it just me, or in that last pic does it look like the holes in the control horns not reach to the hinge line?


BJ Swope

 

[Tseres]

Is it just me, or in that last pic does it look like the holes in the control horns not reach to the hinge line?

BJ Swope

It's just you. It's how the way they are sitting on the table.

 

[bigblueswope]

Thanks for the clarification.


BJ Swope

 

[Tseres]

Finished gluing the hinges and set it on the floor to let it cure overnight.

Took the tape off the ruder and elevator hinges of the Edge. Picked out the excess glue. There was very little to pick out cause most of it came off with the masking tape.The next step I think should be the pull pull cables. I mounted the servo for the Ruder then I saw that I ran out of time and Art didn't have the turn buckle here so I went and mounted the elevator servos. These are MKS 747 servos. Herve told me that the plane was designed around thes servo for the elevator to save weight. These are verry nice looking servos and they have a feel of quality when you hold them in your hands. Not saying anything else about them untill after I fly the plane with them. The rest of the servos in my Extra are going to be Savox. This is a proven set up from my AJ Laser. Arts Ailerons are getting Savox servos also. More on that when we get to it.
The MKS are mini servos with 416 oz of torque. You don't have to use mini servos. The fuse is designed to use either or. If you go with a standerd size servo you will have to cut the sheeting on the top side of the servo opening. There is a picture where I hash marked the are to be cut out.

That's as far as I got today. It's time for Basketball.

 

[Notorious B.E.N.]

I saw that they were using mini servos on the elevators and that's a cool idea. The only thing I don't like about it is that I can't use my Hitec 5945's I have laying around!

 

[Tseres]

I saw that they were using mini servos on the elevators and that's a cool idea. The only thing I don't like about it is that I can't use my Hitec 5945's I have laying around!

I don't know the specks on that servo. I did mention that you can use full size servos. You can open up the cutout for them to fit. There is plenty of reinforcement to let that happen.

 

[Notorious B.E.N.]

I don't know the specks on that servo. I did mention that you can use full size servos. You can open up the cutout for them to fit. There is plenty of reinforcement to let that happen.

Nice!

They don't have the manuals up yet so I haven't been able to look at them.

 

[Tseres]

Back to the Edge today. Got all the tape off and cleaned off the glue from the hinges on the wings. Everything is nice and free. Mounted the servos and set up the linkage. The aluminum servo arms are on the way for the Edge, but not here yet so I used some plastic arms for setup.

The tip for the day is how I do pull pull cables. I have gone to a turn buckle tensioner from SWB on all my pull pull cables. Makes my life easier and worth the $20 to me. I mark all the screws with a marker to make sure I screw them into the ball ends equally.
'Something I want to make a point of enfaces." Do not leave a big loop in the cable when your crimping it. Pull it up as tight as you can without binding. If you don't you are increasing the chance that the ferrule will slip and will loosen up the tension of your cable. People tell me their cable stretched. Are you sure or did your crimp slip?

To set the cable length. I always put the Ruder servo under power and center the arm. I tape the counterbalance on the ruder in place so it can't move. now you can pull your cable tight so you can do a good job on your crimp. You can then do the opposite side the same way. You now have about the same amount of tension on both sides. Now you can take the tape off of the rudder and adjust you tension. You can also center the ruder with the turnbuckles at this time. That's it your done with the pull pull cables.

I made up a temporary setup channel in my transmitter. Then later on I decided to get Arts transmitter and just use it since it's winter and he don't really need it. His wing bag came in and we put it to use right away. Nice bag from hobby-pack.com. Great bag for under $50.

I put a rail on each side of the ruder servo to stiffen up the servo tray. I started doing this on my 100cc and up planes and now it became habit. I extended the rails to the next section. This allowed me to glue a tray on there for the receiver. Again I do this on all my planes.

Before I can move on. Had to glue the elevator pushrods together. This step should probably be the first step in the build because now I have to wait for it to set up before I can go on. I sanded the contact surface of the carbon rod and used 30 minute Epoxy on glueing it together. Anybody have any pointers on these push rods. Speak up now. It's the first set I've ever done.

Back to taking the tape off of the Extra.