Extreme Flight 104 Extra 300

[Pistolera]

I do it the easy way and just build whole new wings

HAH...for you...YES....the rest of us mortals....not so much!

 

[Terryscustom]

Hey, looks like you may be running the GP123. Any chance you could measure it from plug cap to plug cap for me?

Nice looking build, I like the engine box paint. What did you use?

 

[Capt.Roll]

12" cap to cap.

A base coat of the gray rattle can primer that you get at an auto parts store followed with the Rust-oleum Multicolored Texture rattle can. The primer helps hide and cover the wood otherwise you have to use a lot of the texture paint. There are several different colors available.

Seems to be relatively fuel proof as well.

 

[49dimes]

I like the way you "Inc'd" the IBEC. Just a thought....You could use the charge port next to the led as a "short" on off for the Smart Fly board or did you already do that? @Capt.Roll

 

[Capt.Roll]

That is a great idea, would work just like a pin/flag switch.

On my past builds I always put the IBEC LED on the side of the fuse towards the cowl; always worked great. Since the switch housing holds two toggles and I'm only using one, I removed the unused toggle and put the Tech Aero LED inside the switch housing in its place. I think it is going to work just fine and helps make the outside of the fuse a bit cleaner.........probably less drag..........LOL!

Since it is a bit shaded the green LED is very bright.

 

[Capt.Roll]

Just HAD to start the GP123 today..........LOL. Only a couple of 15-20 seconds runs so I could get an idea of where the throttle linkage is. Idle was a bit fast and I can trim it down with the TX but would rather make the adjustment mechanically.

A little trick if you are starting an engine for the first time (or maybe a long time between starts) and don't want to flip to get fuel up to the carb. Just loosen the screws on the pump cover. Squeeze the fuel bottle and you should see gas move through the line and then start dripping from the pump side of the carb. Tighten the cover screws and then go through your normal startup routine. Hopefully the engine will pop within a few flips and then start with just a few additional flips.

 

[49dimes]

Lookin like some real seriousness all up in there!

 

[camss69]

My flying plans for the weekend got canceled when I found a crack in my Fortitude tank.. Ugh... But better to find it on the ground than in the air. The crack was on the top of the tank and not the bottom so the only fuel that leaked out was actually on top of the tank. I Have one of the PSP Fiji bottle caps, I guess I'll give that one a try as soon as I find a 1 liter Fiji bottle. I was excited to try out the new MKS servos too.

 

[Capt.Roll]

What did you use to split the ailerons? How did you get the cut so clean? I'd like to do this to my spare set of wings.

The pic below shows the tools I used to split the ailerons.

This was done before hinging the wing. I'm sure this can be done to an aileron that is already hinged but I'm pretty sure it would be more difficult.

1. Determine where you want the split. I think on the EF 104" Extra the split was 18" out from the inboard edge of the ailerons. Basically I wanted the servos to be at the center each control surface. The inboard aileron is shorter in length than the outboard section.
2. Determine the angle of your cut. I used the ribs as a guide; I believe it was 10 or 11 degrees using the trail edge of the aileron as my "zero" line to determine the angle.
3. Mark your cut line, I used a Sharpie marker. Since I wanted to try and save my covering I marked both sides of the ailerons.
4. Take the razor blade and cut the covering......again both sides if you are trying to save the existing covering. It's okay to cut into the balsa as the score line will serve as guide when making the cut with the kerf saw.
5. Peel back the covering around the aileron several inches. Find a corner to start and take your time so you do not tear the covering.
6. Grab the saw and make your cuts. Try to keep the saw exactly perpendicular to the top/bottom of the control surface. The trailing edge of the aileron is thin so this is an easy cut. The leading edge if the aileron is thicker so take you time with this cut.......go a little at a time and keep the saw cutting on your angle and perpendicular.

If you scored the balsa when you cut the covering that will help to have nice clean edges.

 

[balsa]

Seems like I'm finally making some progress on getting my 104" completed. Finally settled on a location for the ignition along with the IBEC and the Smart-Fly/RX; the A123's location will be finalized once I get an initial CG check. Wiring has been run from the rudder and stablilizer servos to the RX along with the switch to turn on/off the Smart-Fly board.

No much left to do; secure the fuel bottle, drill the prop and spinner back plate and secure/tidy up rest of the wiring.

View attachment 12750 View attachment 12752

Where did you get that plate from, for the ignition?