Extreme Flight 104 Extra 300

[49dimes]

Pffffft! Geeezh!

OK......1987 ES300 introduced......1989 Goldberg models but Dave Patrick proto tested in 1988.....And I have no clue cuz I was hoping some one would answer which one of Chris's came first and I don't think it is the 58" electric which came out around the same time the 120" 40 center did.

Any way finally got some telemetry temps on my 104 with the ducting. Was 58 degrees and humidity @62% Temp alarm set at 290 degrees. Extended up lines I saw 260 degrees and a low temp of 240 degrees about a minute after take off. I was seeing typical level flight moderate speed temps at 250 and high speed (prop rip) 258. Hovering for a little over a minute 288 degrees and alarm sounded when accelerating out of the hover( 295 degrees) but soon came down after entering level flight to 275 and then under 260 just moderate speed flying. Never saw anything above 300 degrees!

@orthobird there you are!

I do not fly in hot weather (above 85 degrees) because I am a FOG ( and it stresses my heart condition) but will post up some summer time numbers when I can.

 

[skibum44]

That is pretty darn close to the temps I am seeing with the baffled DA70 at -10° to 26°F ambient temps. I would admit I may be a hair short exhaust ducting, but I figured I would start small and open up if needed as temps go up. I think I'm close to 2.5:1 right now and don't have anything in the way of temps in summer conditions. From having the temp telemetry, I am a believer that a cooler baffled engine, gives better performance and higher RPMs during operation.

 

[JoeAirPort]

You can buy a 4 pack of aluminum cooling vents from valleyview rc for under $14 shipped. Install these on the bottom of the cowling. This will suck out hot air and help with the air flow. It should reduce temps even more. I plan on installing them over the long slots where the muffler stacks go through the cowling. I will have to install them and remove them every time the cowling is put on or taken off. Just 4 screws each. That's the plan.

 

[orthobird]

Pffffft! Geeezh!

OK......1987 ES300 introduced......1989 Goldberg models but Dave Patrick proto tested in 1988.....And I have no clue cuz I was hoping some one would answer which one of Chris's came first and I don't think it is the 58" electric which came out around the same time the 120" 40 center did.

Any way finally got some telemetry temps on my 104 with the ducting. Was 58 degrees and humidity @62% Temp alarm set at 290 degrees. Extended up lines I saw 260 degrees and a low temp of 240 degrees about a minute after take off. I was seeing typical level flight moderate speed temps at 250 and high speed (prop rip) 258. Hovering for a little over a minute 288 degrees and alarm sounded when accelerating out of the hover( 295 degrees) but soon came down after entering level flight to 275 and then under 260 just moderate speed flying. Never saw anything above 300 degrees!

@orthobird there you are!

I do not fly in hot weather (above 85 degrees) because I am a FOG ( and it stresses my heart condition) but will post up some summer time numbers when I can.

awesome!! glad you are into the telemetry now. I would not get concerned if temps get into three hundred range either. listen to your motor while you fly it. But, only question, where is your sensor located?

 

[49dimes]

awesome!! glad you are into the telemetry now. I would not get concerned if temps get into three hundred range either. listen to your motor while you fly it. But, only question, where is your sensor located?

Right cylinder wrapped around under top fin. Wish Futaba would make one that gets installed under the spark plug.

 

[orthobird]

so far, that sounds good. is the actual sensor on the front of the cylinder or in the back of the cylinder? what i am getting at, is the actula temp sensor has to be in the shadow of the prop-wash. if you have it there, then you will be getting the "hottest temp", next to the most accurate, which would be one that is right up on the spark-plug area.

 

[skibum44]

I took this idea from the forums... It wraps around the backside of the cylinder between the fins closest to the plug.

 

[orthobird]

yep, that is the same way i do it. looks good!

 

[49dimes]

so far, that sounds good. is the actual sensor on the front of the cylinder or in the back of the cylinder? what i am getting at, is the actula temp sensor has to be in the shadow of the prop-wash. if you have it there, then you will be getting the "hottest temp", next to the most accurate, which would be one that is right up on the spark-plug area.

In the back. I did learn something on these forums!lol That's why a washer type thermocouple (under plug) would be nice for Futaba to offer up.

 

[49dimes]

FYI I tried to make one (washer / under plug) but the resistance changed (I have a millivolt meter) and I pretty much destroyed the temp sensor. And Futaba's sensors are kind of pricey. They also have a special circuit built in ( s-bus serialization) so my tach is moot to use with telemetry and will have to mount the magnetic sensor in place of the hall sensor.