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Extreme Flight 76/83" MXS

AKfreak

150cc
I just ordered some parts to finish the MXS
1 Secraft Aluminum Turnbuckle Pushrod 90MM M3 (Comnes with @ pcs) $5.00
1 Secraft Pull-Pull Wire Tensioner SILVER $13.00
1 SECRAFT FUEL T-FITTINGS RED $5.50
1 Secraft One Touch Fuel Dot V3 BLUE $18.00
1 Secraft SE Velcro Ring set (2) 450mm $4.40
Shipping fro Priority was $5.25

I think I got a great deal for some Secraft parts.
 

AKfreak

150cc
Turnbuckles are fine. I used the stock ones setup as shown in the manual. Works great. They were just in the wrong bag. People who are using longer ones are installing their elevator servos backwards (on purpose)

My wheels are fine, they just needed slight drilling. No biggie. For the guys with wobbly wheels, they should probably be getting replacements.

The cowl, landing gear, and pants look great to me. The one bolt on the pants is working great too. I've flown off grass and asphalt without issue. The pants haven't moved at all.

You couldn't pay enough to trade my MXS for a flymodel lol. Comparing the two is an absolute joke. In flight QUALITY will not even be in the same league. Guaranteed.


I do feel I paid for a quality kit....and I feel that's what I got.

I would agree that comparing the fight characteristics of a FLy model to a EF is a joke. But to me its a Joke that a entry level company like Fly-Model smokes EF in the little details. I am not here to have a pissing match with you bro.

I am here to say that EF dropped the ball a little, and I am disappointed in some of the ways EF does things in their build vs what is offered by an entry level company such as Fly-Model.
 

Ohio AV8TOR

Just Do It
To be fair this is absolutely the best 35cc plane I've flown imo. Hopefully when you get it in the air it'll be worth the trouble.

Also, I believe these are the first production. I'm sure Chris will be having a talk with the factory to improve these minor issues.
Honestly I never expect perfection from a first production run(but I still know how you feel since I also paid $650+ for mine). This is based on personal experience as well as following the release of many planes.

I did not mind at all replacing the wheels and buying a longer set of turnbuckles. By the way my LHS is the worst I have come across and they even stocked the Hanger 9 titanium links and I think they were under $6 for two. As Joe mentions the plane flys great and that is really what counts. The rudder authority is crazy good.
 
4-40 work with M3 ball links. Since you have to self tap them it does not matter. Whatever works for you.

I am interested to see if there is a improvement in the new 74" laser. I too was a little disappointed in the hardware on this kit. If you ever get a Pilot-RC kit you will be impressed. Redwing is pretty nice as well. Not tried Aeroworks yet or PAU which I understand are super nice on hardware.
 

AKfreak

150cc
I heard PAU has the best hardware kit. Hangar 9 has good hardware kits. Fly-Model has good hardware, Aeroworks has good hardware. Even my Carl Goldberg had great hardware. I appreciate your time responding to my posts guys.
 
Hangar 9 is in a league of their own IF you buy their stuff. Quickest build giant scale plane I have ever done is their 35% extra. Everything has it's place with cut outs for the power safe RX and perfectly setup for a DA-120.
 

AKfreak

150cc
I have several h9 planes, I love the showtime 90. It was so fun to build. I helped build the 35% extra. 300. I guess I was spoiled with their stuff, and expected everyone else to be at least as good.
 

AKfreak

150cc
Ok, Stuffing a DA-50 in the 35CC narrow MSX cowling isn't such an easy task. Fitting the motor was easy, fitting a stock exhaust is not so easy.

Spinner Gap is perfect.
15306328288_32ea1af88e_b.jpg

15306328518_69ceca08c4_b.jpg

15492976235_a756381ee0_b.jpg


Like I said Fitting the Motor is easy.
15306068229_2b354c5359_b.jpg


Shoe-Horning that Stock Pipe, Not so easy.
15492637682_b5866eb6d4_b.jpg

15306087529_5559597896_b.jpg


The cowl is rough cut to the pipe, I still need to cut away more material to clearance the cowl away from the side of expansion chamber. What is the minimal clearance to I need from the fins and the exhaust to insure heat doesn't burn the fiberglass?
 
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