Dooinit
70cc twin V2
Don't use the water based stuff. I heard it can warp the balsa. Who knows if it's true. I used the oil based stuff on the fuselage of my p47. I don't think I will use it again. The wings are a lot more durable
Glassing and Painting techniques
- Thread starter Terryscustom
- Start date
Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
Several things I've read say to use Deft Sanding Sealer first to prevent warpage from the water base product. I didn't make it out today to pick any of it up. Instead I had a three hour lunch with the guy I go flying with. I guess there are worse ways to blow your day than talking airplanes and cars with a friend. 
Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
OK, departure on paint work...........Tinting Canopies!!!!
This is pretty easy if you can spray paint or clear. I had a pile of stuff to tint today so we grouped it all together. One is for my Viper so on the kit build ones I like to tint the inside. For ARF's it is impossible to spray the inside good enough to get a nice smooth coat. I've landed more than one of the ARF's upside down after tinting and it holds up well
First mask off the edge with fine-line tape. On the ARF canopies I like to mask so just a tiny bit of the painted surface shows yet (after tinting dries several days I pinstripe that edge with silver). After you are happy with the fine-line continue on with regular painters masking tap. I also like to use the same paper backer used for applying vinyl graphics. It's cheap and easy to use. On an ARF make sure you mask off the entire bottom and back so that no mist gets inside to fog the inside surface of the canopy!
After all masking is done wash the area to be painted with wax and grease remover once or twice and let dry completely.
I use Nason products again because they are not too expensive, user friendly and easy to get. They make a spot panel clear and multi-panel clear. The difference I find is that the spot panel clear does not wet sand or buff out as well and it remains slightly flexible (perfect for canopies!!!). I use the multi-panel clear for regular painting clear. For the black tint use black basecoat. It can be found even on amazon and is a one-part product. I actually use a lot of Kustom Shop paints because many of their base coats are very close to ultracote colors and I custom mix to match by experimentation.
One thing I learned is that I like to strain my clear fortified with black at least twice. For some reason when putting it in the clear that are certain larger articles that stick together. I mixed the black in this at a ratio of about 2.5 oz. of black to 20 oz of clear. You can spray a clear water bottle to test the color. I like to apply two coats to final tint to keep the weight down, but three can be done if you are a bit light.
Apply the clear following the mfg. recommendations but I normally spray with about a 6" fan on the gun and apply the coat just thick enough to allow it to flow together for a nice smooth coat. Over lap each pass by 50% and you need to be careful not to over-apply in certain areas because everywhere you spray it gets darker!! Then wait for about 10 minutes and apply the second coat. You can see my Edge canopy on the end is sprayed with a complete third coat of tint and it is noticably darker than the other two.
Again follow all spec. sheets for the products you choose to use for application, mixing, spraying, etc.
This is pretty easy if you can spray paint or clear. I had a pile of stuff to tint today so we grouped it all together. One is for my Viper so on the kit build ones I like to tint the inside. For ARF's it is impossible to spray the inside good enough to get a nice smooth coat. I've landed more than one of the ARF's upside down after tinting and it holds up well
First mask off the edge with fine-line tape. On the ARF canopies I like to mask so just a tiny bit of the painted surface shows yet (after tinting dries several days I pinstripe that edge with silver). After you are happy with the fine-line continue on with regular painters masking tap. I also like to use the same paper backer used for applying vinyl graphics. It's cheap and easy to use. On an ARF make sure you mask off the entire bottom and back so that no mist gets inside to fog the inside surface of the canopy!
After all masking is done wash the area to be painted with wax and grease remover once or twice and let dry completely.
I use Nason products again because they are not too expensive, user friendly and easy to get. They make a spot panel clear and multi-panel clear. The difference I find is that the spot panel clear does not wet sand or buff out as well and it remains slightly flexible (perfect for canopies!!!). I use the multi-panel clear for regular painting clear. For the black tint use black basecoat. It can be found even on amazon and is a one-part product. I actually use a lot of Kustom Shop paints because many of their base coats are very close to ultracote colors and I custom mix to match by experimentation.
One thing I learned is that I like to strain my clear fortified with black at least twice. For some reason when putting it in the clear that are certain larger articles that stick together. I mixed the black in this at a ratio of about 2.5 oz. of black to 20 oz of clear. You can spray a clear water bottle to test the color. I like to apply two coats to final tint to keep the weight down, but three can be done if you are a bit light.
Apply the clear following the mfg. recommendations but I normally spray with about a 6" fan on the gun and apply the coat just thick enough to allow it to flow together for a nice smooth coat. Over lap each pass by 50% and you need to be careful not to over-apply in certain areas because everywhere you spray it gets darker!! Then wait for about 10 minutes and apply the second coat. You can see my Edge canopy on the end is sprayed with a complete third coat of tint and it is noticably darker than the other two.
Again follow all spec. sheets for the products you choose to use for application, mixing, spraying, etc.
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Dooinit
70cc twin V2
There is a company that makes a tinted clear bomb can. It is intended for blacking out tail lights and turn signals. It is transparent. I have used it on some taillights in the past with good results. I will see if I have any left and take a picture of it
Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
They look great Terry!
dhal22
GSN Sponsor Tier 1
I love Minwax Polycrylic. I used it on the Blue Angel i posted a photo of earlier in this thread. Virtually zero weight gain after it dries. Very easy to sand, softer finish though. And any water based finish needs sanding sealer under it.
