Glassing and Painting techniques

[TAS_Kustoms]

Definitely sub'd. Good stuff here.

 

[dhal22]

This is a thread for me! I love painted planes.

I use Evercoat for larger fills and love it. Although it dries to quickly. Joint compound works great for filling the wood grain.

I fly ARFs but build classic pattern planes. Her is a scratch built MK Blue Angel I did a couple of years ago. The build thread is on RCU in the classic pattern forum.

 

[tylerzx9r]

I actually use Evercoat and have had good luck. Would be cool if it had a 30 minute open time instead of 5 minutes or so, but it does seem to mix well in small quantities.



I'm going to learn as much as anybody but with all the building going on there is going to be a LOT of painting and finishing going on in the next few months!!!

If you are mixing in smaller quantities such as the case usually with this hobby, it is easy to mix way to much hardener in with the glaze. This is what is causing it to dry so quickly. All of the Glazing products I have used have a suggested ratio on the bottle, (I prefer UPOL). You need to just back off the hardener a little to get a longer work time. Maybe to those of you who aren't body/paint guys, do some experimenting on a pc. of cardboard.

 

[Terryscustom]

I fly ARFs but build classic pattern planes. Her is a scratch built MK Blue Angel I did a couple of years ago. The build thread is on RCU in the classic pattern forum.

That's what I'm talking about! What weight glass and what is your preferred method of application?

 

[Pistolera]

So....for someone (like me!) who would like to learn more about painting (specifically base/clear systems) and the equipment needed (recommended) is there a site, or reference guide that we (I) can go to?

 

[Terryscustom]

So....for someone (like me!) who would like to learn more about painting (specifically base/clear systems) and the equipment needed (recommended) is there a site, or reference guide that we (I) can go to?

GSN Sorry, had to say that.

Base / clear is actually very simple but not everyone can spray clear really well without some practice. The materials generally are not that expensive either once you get into it. Base is super easy because (and I'm sure the paint guy's will correct me here) but you can really hammer it on and it's pretty hard to mess up. Through my backyard mechanics schooling I've learned a few things:
- Prep work is 100% key to final finish quality.
- Use a 2K primer to prevent shrinkage
- Use a primer sealer to prevent base coats form changing tone (when the base soaks into the primer)
- I've used super cheap and super expensive base coats and had good luck with them all honestly
- Practice on some odd shaped objects if you have not sprayed clear before. You need to spray just enough to get it to flow together with a gun that atomizes well and at the correct pressure. Don't use a box store paint gun, even if you use a cheaper model of a name brand they will serve you well.

This is just the rules I go by, I'm sure I'll learn more as we go on here. Maybe myself and some others can do some quick vids. I know I'm going to airbrush flames on my Viper and I will probably do a time-lapse deal of that. Got myself a new airbrush for that because my old Grex is pissing me off and my Talon has seen it's better days. Finally stepped up to an Iwata

This is my entire hobby arsenal of spray equipment. I use a full size gun for clear and primer, I use a quality touch up gun for colors because I find I can get around on an airplane better with a small gun. Also with basecoats they dry flat so you don't need it all to flow together quite as much as with clear so the smaller fan pattern works well. Then you just need a hose with a simple regulator.

 

[Jetpainter]

So....for someone (like me!) who would like to learn more about painting (specifically base/clear systems) and the equipment needed (recommended) is there a site, or reference guide that we (I) can go to?

Earle,
Every painter has his favorite brand an type of gun. There are a lot of good brands out there such as Sata, Iwata, DeVilbiss and others. I like Sata guns, but a hobbyist doesn't really need to spend $600+ on a spray gun. There are a lot of low cost knock offs out there and also lower price name brands that work fine. The deal with the guns like Sata, Iwata and others is that properly treated, they will last nearly forever. I use a Sata NR2000 that I bought in 2000, all the time. I can't even begin to guess how much paint has been through it.

We can get into more detail later, but I like to use a full size gun for almost everything, since that's what I'm used to. I use a 1.4 spray tip, because it will spray a wide variety of materials, mainly basecoats and clearcoats well. The tip size changes the atomization of the paint. Thicker materials such as primer, generally require a larger tip. Normally the paint manufacturer recommends a tip size range you should use.

 

[Robbins]

dont forget your homemade fume vacuum, terry!

also, dust is a real bi+ch if you stir the air up. especially with clear. I dont know how youdo so well with your clear in a wood shop.

at my paint booth i used to have i would always wet the floor with lukewarm h2o and have exhaust fan running to get the humidity out, which brings us to another point. Temp and humidity can screw with things too if youre not paying attention. I totally wasted about $300 worth of paint on my 79 Le Mans with the environmental conditions being borderline for the product. Not fun, plus i had to do it over again. lots of swearing that evening.

I have since then sold most of my good guns off, but i have my backups still. Just nowhere to paint.

terry, i can rebuild those airbrushes if you would like me to.

 

[Dooinit]

Jetpainter is right. Paint guns are all preference. I use sata and Iwata. Sata for primers and dealers and base coat, Iwata for clear. I use waterborne basecoat. It's not the best for home use. You need a lot of airflow to get it to dry or a lot of time. Older basecoat is nice. You don't wanna hammer it on(sorry terry), because you don't want to trap solvents. The main thing is just taking your time. I have tried cheaper paint guns and they just don't last. I bought a sata 2000 back in 2000 as well, and it is still going. I paint a lot. Too much. Never forget your respirator guys. I am 33 and I can say I am not liking the effects this stuff has on my body day in and day out. Good ventilation too. I have a supplied air respirator, bu not needed for home use

 

[Dooinit]

That is a 3m papr unit. Real nice if you don't have super clean air from your compressor. The Iwata is my clear gun. Best one I have used to date(I have tried LOTS) 1.3 tip. The sata 4000 is a great base coat gun. It has a 1.4 tip.