You may know this already, but for the benefit of others reading this that may not understand what's going on....
The timing on Castle Ice2 ESC’s is automatically determined by the ESC. The setting choices on Castle Link are for a dynamic range for the advance and retard settings according to RPM. Expanding the range too much will produce more heat than performance gains. It is possible to get a complete shutdown on motors that inherently run hot. So for 3D applications, and especially Hacker motors in 3D applications, the low setting are recommended by Castle, and I'm sure Steve at Castle would agree because he's the one that told me this.
Motrolfly motors do run a bit cooler so this is not a concern to us, even here in Florida with those motors.
Another thing about the Ice2 as far as acceleration and timing is that the older firmware versions work better. Many of the guys I talk to about ESC performance agree that 3.27 works better with 28 pole motors, which I have confirmed, and 4.02 works better with 14 pole, which I have not confirmed just yet. I'm actually running 3.27 on a DM4330-206 with a 21x8 and getting 3110W peak, so I have no plan to change anything.
Also, I watched the video, and you may want to try putting your throttle at the mid-point before connecting power. When you hear all the cell count beeps, advance to full until you get the signal that the ESC has recognized WOT, then pull all the way back until you get the signal that the ESC has recognized off, and is armed. Now there is no question that the ESC knows where off and WOT are.
As far as programming a throttle curve, we usually start with point [1] 32%, [2] 42%, [3] 49%, [4] 61%, [5] 75%, [6] 100% or something like that, to get the mid-range a little flatter for hovers and harriers, which is like having a little more exponential right around the middle. My Tx is an older 9303 so I'm not sure how you'd do that with Futaba.