New Aerobeez 48" Mini Banshee!!
- Thread starter Xpress
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Xpress
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Did some more progress last night. I found a 3542-1400kV motor that I want to try out to see how it does before I try the Himax. I am thinking a 12x6E prop with this high of a kV rating, should be fairly ballistic on 3S I think. If not then we'll prop up to 13x6.5E.
The process of mounting your motor is simple and easy. Bolt your X-mount to the motor, make sure you use blue threadlocker on the x-mount bolts to keep them from backing out. Snug them up good and tight, but don't crank them down to the point of you stripping the heads.
The kit supplies 4 screws for mounting your motor, they are going to be the longest screws.
The firewall also has holes pre-tapped for the vast majority of motors this size- they fit my mount perfectly so I went ahead and used those. If your motor mount does not fit them properly then you will have to re-drill holes to accomodate.
I started out by driving the screws into the holes without the motor. They will make the holes the right size for themselves, make sure you drive them all the way through the other side of the firewall.
The next step is to saturate the holes with thin CA. This is important as it will harden up all of the wood around the holes to help prevent them from stripping out.
Let the CA dry for a while on its own, using kicker here will make the CA brittle and can be detrimental. Once the CA has dried, test fit your motor to the firewall using 2 screws.
Slip the cowl on over the entire assembly to check and see if the motor is spaced out far enough to fit your propeller.
Mine is just about perfect like this so I will go ahead and move onto the next steps. IF your motor is not spaced out far forward enough for you to fit your spinner/propeller without contacting the firewall then you can use the supplied wooden spacers to help push the motor out farther to clear the cowl. These spacers will go between the firewall and the back of your motor mount, the screw will pass through the center hole.
Once you are satisfied with the fit then you can bolt the motor up with all 4 screws.
Get your speed control and put the appropriate connectors on it for your motor and battery. Make sure your battery connector is the correct polarity!!!
I chose to mount my ESC directly on the bottom of the motor box against the fuselage, you should only need to use a piece of velcro to secure it in place. Before you stick the velcro down to the motor box, you will want to apply some medium CA to the area to make a surface that the velcro will stick to- stick the velcro directly to the wood and it may pull up easily. Just put about a dime size drop down and use something to spread it evenly around. Let it dry completely on its own.
Do note that you don't want to put a THICK bead down as it may not cure fully underneath the surface for several hours. Just a small thin drop is all you need, spread it around to a very thin layer.
Once the CA had dried, stick your velcro to the ESC and to the motor box- I use the fuzzy "loop" side of the velcro on my ESC and the rough "hook" side on the motor box.
Stick the ESC in place, you shouldn't need to do much else to keep it in place.
Run your wires inside the fuselage and your motor/ESC install is complete.
The process of mounting your motor is simple and easy. Bolt your X-mount to the motor, make sure you use blue threadlocker on the x-mount bolts to keep them from backing out. Snug them up good and tight, but don't crank them down to the point of you stripping the heads.
The kit supplies 4 screws for mounting your motor, they are going to be the longest screws.
The firewall also has holes pre-tapped for the vast majority of motors this size- they fit my mount perfectly so I went ahead and used those. If your motor mount does not fit them properly then you will have to re-drill holes to accomodate.
I started out by driving the screws into the holes without the motor. They will make the holes the right size for themselves, make sure you drive them all the way through the other side of the firewall.
The next step is to saturate the holes with thin CA. This is important as it will harden up all of the wood around the holes to help prevent them from stripping out.
Let the CA dry for a while on its own, using kicker here will make the CA brittle and can be detrimental. Once the CA has dried, test fit your motor to the firewall using 2 screws.
Slip the cowl on over the entire assembly to check and see if the motor is spaced out far enough to fit your propeller.
Mine is just about perfect like this so I will go ahead and move onto the next steps. IF your motor is not spaced out far forward enough for you to fit your spinner/propeller without contacting the firewall then you can use the supplied wooden spacers to help push the motor out farther to clear the cowl. These spacers will go between the firewall and the back of your motor mount, the screw will pass through the center hole.
Once you are satisfied with the fit then you can bolt the motor up with all 4 screws.
Get your speed control and put the appropriate connectors on it for your motor and battery. Make sure your battery connector is the correct polarity!!!
I chose to mount my ESC directly on the bottom of the motor box against the fuselage, you should only need to use a piece of velcro to secure it in place. Before you stick the velcro down to the motor box, you will want to apply some medium CA to the area to make a surface that the velcro will stick to- stick the velcro directly to the wood and it may pull up easily. Just put about a dime size drop down and use something to spread it evenly around. Let it dry completely on its own.
Do note that you don't want to put a THICK bead down as it may not cure fully underneath the surface for several hours. Just a small thin drop is all you need, spread it around to a very thin layer.
Once the CA had dried, stick your velcro to the ESC and to the motor box- I use the fuzzy "loop" side of the velcro on my ESC and the rough "hook" side on the motor box.
Stick the ESC in place, you shouldn't need to do much else to keep it in place.
Run your wires inside the fuselage and your motor/ESC install is complete.
Xpress
GSN Sponsor Tier 1
The last handful of steps to completing this airplane are to install the servos, control horns, and linkages. This process essentially repeats itself 4 times so I will go into detail on the Elevator servo then we'll just cruise on through the Rudder and both Ailerons.
Start out by getting your servo and extension. These are HS-5065MG digital servos (please note that these are NOT totally necessary for this airplane, I just prefer to use digitals, the regular analog HS-65MG will work fine- Metal Gear is recommended!) and I am using a 16" extension.
You will want to ensure your extension is secured to the servo lead and can't come undone so I used a piece of masking tape. Servo clips, heat shrink and even fishing string work just as well.
Thread your extension down the fuselage to the front of the airplane. A trick I use is straighten out the extension as much as possible then hold the airplane vertically by the tail, then run the extension down.
Slip your servo into the pocket. Depending on which servo you use, you may have to trim the mounting rails to get the servo to fit. I use my Xacto knife to mark where the servo mounting screws will go. Just give the Xacto a little twist and it will begin to ream some holes into the wood. Drive your servo screws into these marks.
Remove the screws and pop the servo out, then saturate the holes with thin CA. Let this dry on its own.
Pop the servo back in and tighten the screws down. Don't crank the screws down, just tighten them enough to be snug.
Please note that the servo orientation is towards the FRONT of the airplane.
Grab one of the 4 control horns and some sand paper. Slip the control horn into its slot on the control surface to check the fit. Make sure that the hole is directly over the hinge line!
These kits are precision cut so it should fit without an issue. If it doesn't fit right or is misaligned then you may need to sand it lightly to get it to fit properly.
Once you are happy with the fit, sand the gluing surface (the portion that sits inside of the wood) down to roughen it up and make the glue stick better.
Apply a bead of medium CA into the plywood slot.
Apply a small amount of medium CA to both sides of the control horn where it will glue into the slot.
Slip the control horn into the slot and double check its alignment one more time. You can lightly mist some kicker ontop of the horn to lock it in place.
Moving onto the linkage setup, remove your servo arm from your servo, then locate 1 of the extended control horns supplied with the airplane kit. also locate 2 of the screws supplied with the extended arm.
Slip the extended arom onto the servo horn and drive the screws through both arms to secure them together.
Since this is for the elevator and because of how the servo is oriented underneath, you may have to trim the top portion of the extended arm off.
You can sand the sharp edges down if you would like.
Gather 2 ball links, 2 bolts, 2 nuts, and one turnbuckle.
Begin threading the ball links onto the turnbuckle by hand.
Once you get both ball links hand threaded onto the turnbuckle, grab a pair of pliers and grip the center section of the turnbuckle, then using your hands, twist the ball links further onto the threaded portion of the shaft. Keep in mind that the threads are reversed on one end, this allows you to turn the turnbuckle one way or the other to adjust the length of the completed linkage.
Slip the bolt through one of the ball links and into your servo horn, then place the nut on the other side and using your allen key, begin tightening the nut onto the other end. Repeat this process for the surface control horn.
Center your servo, slip the servo horn onto the output shaft, then center your servo in your transmitter. You want the control horn to run perpendicular to the servo body. Once you have centered the servo, use your pliers and turn the turnbuckle to center the elevator. This completes the install of your elevator servo and control linkage assembly.
Start out by getting your servo and extension. These are HS-5065MG digital servos (please note that these are NOT totally necessary for this airplane, I just prefer to use digitals, the regular analog HS-65MG will work fine- Metal Gear is recommended!) and I am using a 16" extension.
You will want to ensure your extension is secured to the servo lead and can't come undone so I used a piece of masking tape. Servo clips, heat shrink and even fishing string work just as well.
Thread your extension down the fuselage to the front of the airplane. A trick I use is straighten out the extension as much as possible then hold the airplane vertically by the tail, then run the extension down.
Slip your servo into the pocket. Depending on which servo you use, you may have to trim the mounting rails to get the servo to fit. I use my Xacto knife to mark where the servo mounting screws will go. Just give the Xacto a little twist and it will begin to ream some holes into the wood. Drive your servo screws into these marks.
Remove the screws and pop the servo out, then saturate the holes with thin CA. Let this dry on its own.
Pop the servo back in and tighten the screws down. Don't crank the screws down, just tighten them enough to be snug.
Please note that the servo orientation is towards the FRONT of the airplane.
Grab one of the 4 control horns and some sand paper. Slip the control horn into its slot on the control surface to check the fit. Make sure that the hole is directly over the hinge line!
These kits are precision cut so it should fit without an issue. If it doesn't fit right or is misaligned then you may need to sand it lightly to get it to fit properly.
Once you are happy with the fit, sand the gluing surface (the portion that sits inside of the wood) down to roughen it up and make the glue stick better.
Apply a bead of medium CA into the plywood slot.
Apply a small amount of medium CA to both sides of the control horn where it will glue into the slot.
Slip the control horn into the slot and double check its alignment one more time. You can lightly mist some kicker ontop of the horn to lock it in place.
Moving onto the linkage setup, remove your servo arm from your servo, then locate 1 of the extended control horns supplied with the airplane kit. also locate 2 of the screws supplied with the extended arm.
Slip the extended arom onto the servo horn and drive the screws through both arms to secure them together.
Since this is for the elevator and because of how the servo is oriented underneath, you may have to trim the top portion of the extended arm off.
You can sand the sharp edges down if you would like.
Gather 2 ball links, 2 bolts, 2 nuts, and one turnbuckle.
Begin threading the ball links onto the turnbuckle by hand.
Once you get both ball links hand threaded onto the turnbuckle, grab a pair of pliers and grip the center section of the turnbuckle, then using your hands, twist the ball links further onto the threaded portion of the shaft. Keep in mind that the threads are reversed on one end, this allows you to turn the turnbuckle one way or the other to adjust the length of the completed linkage.
Slip the bolt through one of the ball links and into your servo horn, then place the nut on the other side and using your allen key, begin tightening the nut onto the other end. Repeat this process for the surface control horn.
Center your servo, slip the servo horn onto the output shaft, then center your servo in your transmitter. You want the control horn to run perpendicular to the servo body. Once you have centered the servo, use your pliers and turn the turnbuckle to center the elevator. This completes the install of your elevator servo and control linkage assembly.
Xpress
GSN Sponsor Tier 1
Looks like I will also have to change my ESC, the ESC I was using may have had some water damage because during my setup yesterday, it decided to smoke and sent a full 12.6v to my receiver, which in turn fried that as well 
When I looked at the ESC, there was some moisture underneath the heat shrink. now the mystery is how did that get there
Oh well.
When I looked at the ESC, there was some moisture underneath the heat shrink. now the mystery is how did that get there
Oh well.
Xpress
GSN Sponsor Tier 1
Should be 40-45oz RTF @cbarnes0061
BalsaDust
Moderator
Ok I'm still new to all the electric game but talking it over with a buddy that knows his stuff that motor, prop combo on 3S will pull around 85 amps
Xpress
GSN Sponsor Tier 1
What, mine?