BalsaDust
Moderator
Yes you said it's a 3542 outrunner 1400kv with a 12x6 prop on 3S 2200.
New Aerobeez 48" Mini Banshee!!
- Thread starter Xpress
- Start date
Yes you said it's a 3542 outrunner 1400kv with a 12x6 prop on 3S 2200.
Xpress
GSN Sponsor Tier 1
Doubtfull it will draw that kind of current in a 12x6. The Aerobeez team used the same motor in their 48" Extra with 3S. Should be fine.
Xpress
GSN Sponsor Tier 1
My best guess is it was around 55 amps or so, the 40 amp ESC was cutting back the throttle most of the time. But it sure pulled awesome
I have a new motor coming for the airplane, a 3542-1000 which most are using with 13x6.5 or 12x8 props and pulling about 42 amps WOT static.--------------------
Final steps of the build are just using the aforementioned linkage setups and installs on the previous page to complete the ailerons and the rudder. Rudder linkage installed- this uses the longest of the turnbuckles:
Note that the output shaft is oriented towards the front of the aircraft.
The wings have nice servo lead channels built into them to make running the leads simple and easy. I did not need an extension in the week for the HS-5065MG servos.
Right aileron setup.
Left aileron setup.
Please do note that the servo output shafts are also oriented towards the front of the airplane.
The last handful of steps are fairly simple and easy. Just mount your receiver inside and plug all your servos into it. I used some short 6" extensions to allow me to plug the ailerons into the receiver easily.
You can also see that I used one of the supplied zip ties as a wire keeper inside, just poke a small slot in the EPP with your Xacto knife, secure the zip tie around your wires (do not tighten the zip tie down, leave a little bit of slack!), clip off the excess leaving about 1/2" of the end left, then push it into the foam. Secure with a small dab of medium CA and kicker.
You will want to check your CG before mounting your flight battery. I have found that this location works for me, use some of the supplied sticky back velcro on the plywood and then use the strap to secure the battery.
Make sure you drip some thin CA onto the wood and let it dry fully before you place your velcro down, otherwise it may not stick!
Slip your cowl in place, make sure it is sitting properly on the firewall, then fit your propeller and spinner (if you have one- a 2.5" fits perfectly).
When you fit the canopy in place, the alignment tabs at the front of the canopy should slip through the firewall and into the cowl backing plate, securing it in place. This makes it simple to pop the cowl off for maintenance but ensures it won't come off in flight.
The CG on this airplane is right at the rear of the wing spar.
This is where I have found the airplane to fly the best at. You are always welcome to play with the CG range a bit but I wouldn't adjust more than about 1/2" forward or rear of this mark.
This completes the assembly of your airplane. Double check all of your work before flying the airplane to ensure everything is properly secured and installed.
Control throws:
High Rates: Everything maxed out, 45% Expo.
Low Rates: I find about 25* of control throw in either direction works on everything, with about 25% expo.
With airplanes that have servos on the bottom of the wing, you may find that you will have to add in just slightly more up travel than down travel on the ailerons to get a perfectly axial roll. Start with about 5% more up than down and then go from there.
Enjoy your new airplane, I have certainly had fun with it the few flights I have on it
Flight pictures and video to come soon!
Xpress
GSN Sponsor Tier 1
I have some pro tips for you guys to help get the best performance out of your airplane. Heat is the #1 enemy of all electronics and after some aggressive flying I discovered my ESC getting hot enough to cause the thermal cut to kick in. I decided the best thing to do would be to get some airflow directly over it to get all of that heat off of it. Instead of cutting a cooling hole in the cowl, i thought why not just mount it to the side of the motor box, directly in the airflow?
Depending on what ESC you used, you may or may not have to cut the supporting foam out of the cowl to clear it, mine fit just fine so I didn't have to do any cutting. all I did was stuck down another piece of the 'hook' side velcro to the firewall and stuck the ESC to it. To better secure it you can wrap a zip tie around the ESC to keep it firmly in place.
I also decided to fit a couple of baffles to force air directly over the motor too. The scrap EPP you pull from everything works perfectly here, just cut it to shape and glue in place.
The last thing you will need to do to evacuate all of this hot air out is to open up the rear exit holes. Generally speaking you need about 3 times the exit volume as you have intake volume. I just took my Xacto and cut out around all 4 of the existing cooling holes to open them up into one big one. Underneath you will also see 4 more additional cooling holes in the inner structure, cut this out to the same size as the external hole.
Also, keep some of the painted foam you just cut out to use as a low pressure lip, just cut it to size and CA it back in place at an angle. This will create turbulence around the exit holes and draw all of the hot air out of the fuselage.
All of this yielded motor temps around 15* cooler and an ESC that won't overheat and go into thermal cut. I tried to get it to overheat as much as I could, but it never got near that, and I believe we're around 20* cooler on the ESC.
We had a TON of fun with the airplane today!! Rolling harriers are the most fun, it just locks right in and will roll almost effortlessly for days on end. It will knife edge very cleanly in endless lines as well, and harriers are extremely easy, upright or inverted!!!
Depending on what ESC you used, you may or may not have to cut the supporting foam out of the cowl to clear it, mine fit just fine so I didn't have to do any cutting. all I did was stuck down another piece of the 'hook' side velcro to the firewall and stuck the ESC to it. To better secure it you can wrap a zip tie around the ESC to keep it firmly in place.
I also decided to fit a couple of baffles to force air directly over the motor too. The scrap EPP you pull from everything works perfectly here, just cut it to shape and glue in place.
The last thing you will need to do to evacuate all of this hot air out is to open up the rear exit holes. Generally speaking you need about 3 times the exit volume as you have intake volume. I just took my Xacto and cut out around all 4 of the existing cooling holes to open them up into one big one. Underneath you will also see 4 more additional cooling holes in the inner structure, cut this out to the same size as the external hole.
Also, keep some of the painted foam you just cut out to use as a low pressure lip, just cut it to size and CA it back in place at an angle. This will create turbulence around the exit holes and draw all of the hot air out of the fuselage.
All of this yielded motor temps around 15* cooler and an ESC that won't overheat and go into thermal cut. I tried to get it to overheat as much as I could, but it never got near that, and I believe we're around 20* cooler on the ESC.
We had a TON of fun with the airplane today!! Rolling harriers are the most fun, it just locks right in and will roll almost effortlessly for days on end. It will knife edge very cleanly in endless lines as well, and harriers are extremely easy, upright or inverted!!!
Last edited:
Xpress
GSN Sponsor Tier 1
We can't forget the obligatory flight video!!
Wind conditions were kind of odd this weekend. Wind would blow left to right and then the next minute it'd be blowing right to left. There were a couple of times where there were some vortexes rolling down the runway that made it a bit hairy
Wind conditions were kind of odd this weekend. Wind would blow left to right and then the next minute it'd be blowing right to left. There were a couple of times where there were some vortexes rolling down the runway that made it a bit hairy
bc-slowflyer
New to GSN!
Following.
