PAU Ultimate assembly

[Snoopy1]

I have learned if I am going to ask a question I best ask it early, so. What is the idea behind sealing hinge line's? A decent thread else where shows a couple guys using clear Mono being ironed in the hinge line so I bought a roll today but not sure if it is needed or why.

You need to do it the respons is better and you need less deflection. One have you ever seen or I should say heard a 40% plane with its hinges not sealed when it makes a hard manoeuvre. It squeals loudly that is the air being forced through the hinge gap. All that noise is loss of control force.
I use clear Ultracote both sides.

 

[49dimes]

It also helps protect against flutter. I use the "Blenderm" or DuBro hinge tape. I like the "Easy" button these days .

 

[acerc]

Assembly has been progressing but very slowly. Yesterday as I was working on it I noticed the overlying covering was not looking like it was stuck down as well as I thought. So with each piece it is really, thoroughly, absolutely getting ironed down, it kind of put's me in mind of old covering where the clear peels leaving the coloring and adhesive. Not sure when it was made, box says it is number 62, but if it is from the original run it would be 9-10 years old. I don't know but I'll finish it up, fly it like I stole it, and hope the covering stays put.

 

[Snoopy1]

Take your time it would not be the first time that I have seen an ARF land with one side of the wing covering flapping or missing.

 

[acerc]

The cabane is in loosely, I won't tighten it up until I can mount the wings. The wing servos and control horns are installed less the wiring, as usual no wiring until assembled.

 

[Rusty 73]

Acerc I have had three PAU Extra's and would advise you to fill all the joints that have cracks . These model a produce in very damp condition and then dry out in a sea container for six to seven weeks . So I just used hysol expoxy in all the main cracks in the airframe .
Looks like the same red and blue on my Extra .

Herve does make some great flying aircraft , enjoy your bi plane .

 

[acerc]

Acerc I have had three PAU Extra's and would advise you to fill all the joints that have cracks . These model a produce in very damp condition and then dry out in a sea container for six to seven weeks . So I just used hysol expoxy in all the main cracks in the airframe .
Looks like the same red and blue on my Extra .

Herve does make some great flying aircraft , enjoy your bi plane .

I appreciate the advice but so far I have not seen any cracks. All the joints look to be done well and with a quality adhesive. This is the first airframe I have ever owned that had foam sheeted wings and I have to say I like it.
It has a canister tunnel but don't see the usual heat exit just somewhat large square blocked areas. I will probably have to make a ply piece to fil in one of those areas with the usual tunnel exit slots.

 

[Rusty 73]

I appreciate the advice but so far I have not seen any cracks. All the joints look to be done well and with a quality adhesive. This is the first airframe I have ever owned that had foam sheeted wings and I have to say I like it.
It has a canister tunnel but don't see the usual heat exit just somewhat large square blocked areas. I will probably have to make a ply piece to fil in one of those areas with the usual tunnel exit slots.

The same with my Extra two large rectangle opening in the cover for the exhaust . I had to cut two to fit my tuned pipes also enclosed the area with balsa so the heat has a place to exit . Two canister brackets were install for the pipes and one for canisters .

 

[acerc]

This Ulti has the can area boxed in quite well and with front dumps I just need a heat exit. Getting a piece of filler shaped to fill one of the big areas will be the most difficult part. But then maybe not if I use a 1/4" thick piece of the green flower foam as it is very impressionable. Should be able to lay a piece over the area and just rub the perimeter to get the shape and size.

 

[acerc]

By the way, when I initially went over it with the iron I kept it low 200-220° as that is where Ultracote says it attaches to wood. This time around I turned it up a bit, 240°, I use the green painters tape to check if it is adhered as I go along and no problems now.