Bbcorvette18
70cc twin V2
I highly recommend the tech aero ibec.
RedwingRC Pin and Flag with Hidden Dual Battery Redundancy Switch!
- Thread starter 3dmike
- Start date
CanCanCase
30cc
I don't fly big distributed power systems, so these "remove before operation" pin flag cutoffs haven't attracted my attention… until now. I do fly some pretty large electric birds… 50-60cc equivalent, on 12S with 100-160A speed controls. Radio systems are all independently powered via a pretty standard setup with A123, LiPo, etc.
What I'd like to see is something like Schumacher's ArmSafe (http://www.schumacher-products.com/ArmSafe-Brochure-RevA.pdf) but re-worked with a pin/flag to REMOVE to arm, rather than plugging in a high-ampere jumper. I built a home-engineered version into my new 12S SuperCub, as battery access is a bit of a pain. Once charged, the packs are strapped down in the cockpit of the plane, but I don't necessarily want to make the motor hot just then. As I step up to the flight line, I want the radio system to work (surface direction check, etc…) but I don't want the 3000-5000 watt motor system to be "hot" until just before takeoff. As it works now, I plug the arming jumper into the top of the cowl, and go fly. At 50+ volts, the famous "Castle Spark" is eating up the gold plating on arming plugs at an alarming rate. I think I would much rather pull a pin and flag to arm the motor system just prior to flight.
Is anyone making such a thing, or do I get to continue treating $5 jumpers as a disposable commodity?
-Case
What I'd like to see is something like Schumacher's ArmSafe (http://www.schumacher-products.com/ArmSafe-Brochure-RevA.pdf) but re-worked with a pin/flag to REMOVE to arm, rather than plugging in a high-ampere jumper. I built a home-engineered version into my new 12S SuperCub, as battery access is a bit of a pain. Once charged, the packs are strapped down in the cockpit of the plane, but I don't necessarily want to make the motor hot just then. As I step up to the flight line, I want the radio system to work (surface direction check, etc…) but I don't want the 3000-5000 watt motor system to be "hot" until just before takeoff. As it works now, I plug the arming jumper into the top of the cowl, and go fly. At 50+ volts, the famous "Castle Spark" is eating up the gold plating on arming plugs at an alarming rate. I think I would much rather pull a pin and flag to arm the motor system just prior to flight.
Is anyone making such a thing, or do I get to continue treating $5 jumpers as a disposable commodity?
-Case
Great Thread, really like this Booma Switch.
I've just got my hands on a second hand Pilot Extra 330SC 24% with RCGF 32 engine.
It's my first gasser plane. There are so many options out there for the electronics I get a little confused.
Working as a automation technician, I'm quite famililiar with the safety of redundancy. I's my first concern with this new plane and I just want a safe setup to begin with.. but not overkill regards to weight.
Regarding weight my first thought is having a two-battery setup. I'm debating on having either A123 packs or standard LiFe. Does A123-18650 packs have the same pros as this other A123 with bigger cells as people referring to?
I drew a schematic so I don't have to explain to much(norwegian-english, haha) .
Would this be a good solution for my 30cc plane?
I've just got my hands on a second hand Pilot Extra 330SC 24% with RCGF 32 engine.
It's my first gasser plane. There are so many options out there for the electronics I get a little confused.
Working as a automation technician, I'm quite famililiar with the safety of redundancy. I's my first concern with this new plane and I just want a safe setup to begin with.. but not overkill regards to weight.
Regarding weight my first thought is having a two-battery setup. I'm debating on having either A123 packs or standard LiFe. Does A123-18650 packs have the same pros as this other A123 with bigger cells as people referring to?
I drew a schematic so I don't have to explain to much(norwegian-english, haha) .
Would this be a good solution for my 30cc plane?
Attachments
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
On my 35cc planes I run a single 2500 A123. It draws about 300mAh per a 10min flight. So up to about five flights before a recharge. Tech aero for the ign so it’s drawing off the same battery.
One plane I don’t use a switch, just a single XT60 to two pigtails to the RX. The other one is similar but a Jeti Magnetic switch
One plane I don’t use a switch, just a single XT60 to two pigtails to the RX. The other one is similar but a Jeti Magnetic switch
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
As far as LiFe batteries that look like Lipos, I think they are good, but would rather use the HV option of a standard LiPo. Both I would take out to charge. The A123s are more robust, but there is a weight penalty and they tend to cost more. Usually they only come in an 1100 or 2500 size. I leave these in the plane to charge.
My personal preference is a single a123 2500 for 40cc and under. Unless you want HV with a 2S LiPo.
Once again, I highly recommend the TechAero so you don’t need an extra battery for your ignition.
My personal preference is a single a123 2500 for 40cc and under. Unless you want HV with a 2S LiPo.
Once again, I highly recommend the TechAero so you don’t need an extra battery for your ignition.
Thank you for your reply.
I see, seems like the TechAero has good reputation. I think I will settle on this on for the IBEC. It's easier for me to buy(local shop) but the only thing they have is the Jeti SP06 Opto Killswitch, but is this the same thing?
A123 batteries should have it's own charger or at least one that support a123 right? As I've understood you can not use standard LiFe program but a specific LiFePo4 program? is this right?
HV option is something I look into, My KST servos supports up to 8,4V. So Lipo is tempting, it was just that LiFe seemed safer reg. fire etc.
But why not use a Li-ion pack? Is anyone doing this? Then I've got 7,4V on 2cells.
3200mAh pack with same weight as a lipo 2200mAh.
http://boomarc.com/en/xs-power-3200mah-lion-receiver-pack
Thank you
I see, seems like the TechAero has good reputation. I think I will settle on this on for the IBEC. It's easier for me to buy(local shop) but the only thing they have is the Jeti SP06 Opto Killswitch, but is this the same thing?
A123 batteries should have it's own charger or at least one that support a123 right? As I've understood you can not use standard LiFe program but a specific LiFePo4 program? is this right?
HV option is something I look into, My KST servos supports up to 8,4V. So Lipo is tempting, it was just that LiFe seemed safer reg. fire etc.
But why not use a Li-ion pack? Is anyone doing this? Then I've got 7,4V on 2cells.
3200mAh pack with same weight as a lipo 2200mAh.
http://boomarc.com/en/xs-power-3200mah-lion-receiver-pack
Thank you
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