Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
Good luck! Nice packing job too!
The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread
- Thread starter Xpress
- Start date
Snoopy1
640cc Uber Pimp
One of the guys at the field has been shaming me about not flying my little pylon racer for over a year now, so I decided it was time. The airplane is one I scratch built from my own plan about 20 years ago. Back then it was powered with an O.S. 10 for races we had at my previous club. About two years ago I changed it to electric. I had been flying it on 3S and have been wanting to go to 4S, so the other day I ordered a new battery to try out.
According to the propeller data for the Cobra 2213/12 2000kv motor, the 3S with the 6 x 5.5 prop I'd been running had a pitch speed of 89.4. On 4S with a 5.25 x 4.75 that goes up to 104. I have a 4.75 x 5.5 coming (hopefully tomorrow) that the data says has a pitch speed of 124.8. It hard to say if those numbers are close are just theoretical, but it should be interesting to find out.
It's also going to be interesting to see if the 20 year old glue joints, and servos, will hold up to the higher speed too!
View attachment 90408 View attachment 90409
I keep hearing About old glue joins but have never seen old glue joints fail have several old planes and all joints are good. Do not think you will have a problem, like the plane probably go like stink. How did you accommodate the battery in an old glow engine plane.
Is is a lot of fun playing with some old planes I have been resurrecting some old plane and really enjoying it.
Edge_pilot
30cc
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
Not entirely accurate. The RCEXL Opto-Kill only does what they are told to do. They recieve the "on" and "off" signal from your reciever. There is no failsafe per sey, just has to have "on" power signal to allow voltage to be passed to the ignition module. And fact be known, they do not need an extra battery for ignition. The power lead can be plugged into any open reciever channel or even "Y"d with another channel that is in use. The Opto is only looking for power to allow voltage to the ignition. I've been setting them up this way on everything for years with no issues. Everything from the RCGF 10cc on the grandsons trainer to the 30, 50, 100cc planes including the big Yak that presently runs (2) Opto-kill switches. Both operated from separate channels for redundancy, however slaved to operate from one common 2 position toggle switch on my tx. I use the same switch for all ignition commands on all my planes to reduce the risk of "c.r.w.s.s". Too many times I've witnessed people setting up different switches for different planes. It's like, "it's a different plane, it needs a different ignition swith on the tx"! And then they walk around in a daze for six hours trying to figure out where they put the silly ignition switch. The Opto-kill works perfect on a 2 position switch on a tx. Definitely have to make sure the servo volume level for that channel is maxed out and e.p.a. is set at least 20 points past either way of "on" and "off". In other words the "on" signal is kicked at let's say 25%, then drop e.p.a. all the way to zero. Never seen them require more than 20 either way to work perfectly without issue. Course a lot of this depends on each manufacturer and their individual settings on each radio. I am a huge advocate in opposition of adding things that can risk an airframe. Whether it be a 200 dollar foamy or an $8,000.00 dollar Sukhoi or like. It's all about safety to property and people. I'm also huge about not spending money for items you simply do not need, that add possible failure links and is far more complex than needs to be. K.I.S.S.! For myself I'll never spend not one penny for an I.B.E.C or like component, when I can achieve the same exact result from a 12 dollar simple plug in and go switch.
Last edited:
Edge_pilot
30cc
Here are the baffles completely done. much more work needed under the hood, but I am done for now.
Attachments
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
If you've not run a 222, you're in for an awesome experience. Phenomenal engine.
Edge_pilot
30cc
This will be my first one, I here a lot from happy customers and great feedback. I love the sound of a 4 cylinder, music to my ears.
Jetpainter
640cc Uber Pimp
I had built the airplane originally with a bottom hatch to access everything. After removing the fuel tank and giant (by today's standards) receiver, I had just enough room for a battery and ESC. I was able to relocate the tiny new receiver behind the wing spar in a spot that was empty. I did have to lengthen the hatch a few inches so the battery would slide in. Thankfully the CG stayed about the same and in the whole process of swapping to electric the airplane lost about an ounce of weight as well as gained lots of power over the OS10.
The new 4S battery is a 1800mah which is less than the previous 2200mah 3S so flight times will be shorter. The 3S was a 25c Turnigy battery and the airplane would really slow down after the first two minutes or so, even thought it still showed plenty of charge percentage. I'm hoping the new 45C Glacier will solve that issue. I guess I'l find out tomorrow.
But first I need to figure out how I'm going to squeeze all the crap I'm taking tomorrow in the truck.
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
Quad's (4 holers) are the bomb. My sons 222 is freaking amazing. I'm seriously considering a new 40%'er for spring. Although I've had many 3w twins and a 3w 212, a guy just can't beat the price for a 222. And oh so correct. Pure music!
pawnshopmike
Staff member