The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread

[acerc]

If somebody knows how to beat this your help will be appreciated thanks.
View attachment 102838

The coverings are shrinking at a different rate. If you have a trim iron you can use it to heat each color of covering and should be able to accommodate the different shrink rate. This method works for me. Below is some panels I made up and the wing they went on.

 

[Snoopy1]

Been busy working on the "shop" itself. Went to price a new front door and fainted when I saw what the depot wanted for one like it.

No kidding.....You could do a 35% plane complete with engine and servos and everything else to make it go!

Minwax is my good friend.......

View attachment 102839

That is one nice looking door with lead glass and I bet the is solid wood, and you bought it 25 years ago. But to day that door is not affordable.

 

[Snoopy1]

The coverings are shrinking at a different rate. If you have a trim iron you can use it to heat each color of covering and should be able to accommodate the different shrink rate. This method works for me. Below is some panels I made up and the wing they went on.

Looked at your pictures and my panels look just like yours that part went well and the joint was good I could not pull it apart. And it would lay flat on the work bench. It was dead flat on the stabilizer all the edges glued down and wrapped around the edges everything good. But when I went to pull it tight is when all went to hell. I been thinking about it none of you gentleman seem to have the problem but I do the only thing I can think of it is the fluorescent pink it is Ultracote but it is different. Next time I try will be with out a fluorescent colour. The covering on your wings the joint is it on an open structure. When I did it on a closed surface it worked perfectly no problems at all.

 

[49dimes]

That is one nice looking door with lead glass and I bet the is solid wood, and you bought it 25 years ago. But to day that door is not affordable.

You are most correct. And yep it's a little over 28 years old. New back then 1800.

 

[acerc]

The covering on your wings the joint is it on an open structure. When I did it on a closed surface it worked perfectly no problems at all.

The red stops at the trailing edge of the spar, the white is open bay. It did the same thing as noted with your pic, the red shrunk up tighter than the white. I used the trim iron on the white until it shrunk and matched the red. I have had this happen before on both solid backing and open bay's, I think it all depends on the color of covering as to the rate it shrinks. I did a profile several years ago, see pic, and it was like an old prune but the trim iron worked it all out.
On yours it look's as thought the blue is shrinking faster than the red, continue shrinking the red until it get's close and then do both together in small increments. Just because one is tight does not mean it can not be heated slightly more for the other to catch up.

 

[BalsaDust]

The red stops at the trailing edge of the spar, the white is open bay. It did the same thing as noted with your pic, the red shrunk up tighter than the white. I used the trim iron on the white until it shrunk and matched the red. I have had this happen before on both solid backing and open bay's, I think it all depends on the color of covering as to the rate it shrinks. I did a profile several years ago, see pic, and it was like an old prune but the trim iron worked it all out.
On yours it look's as thought the blue is shrinking faster than the red, continue shrinking the red until it get's close and then do both together in small increments. Just because one is tight does not mean it can not be heated slightly more for the other to catch up.

Profile looks great bud. I was reading through the thread I think Brutus did again a couple weeks ago as I’m planning to try the 3D flag scheme some time soon. Are you a member on the probro site and if so what’s your user name.

 

[Xpress]

Just about back up to normal on the 105 Laser!!

A new cowl and new wheel pants will come next month just before the first event of the year in June. I also managed to get the dent on the turtle deck almost completely out by injecting some water into the cracked wood and then steaming back to shape, then pushing from underneath while injecting some tiny droplets of thin CA into the cracked joints. A little deponder to clean up the thin CA that seeped onto the covering will have it back to 99%.

 

[acerc]

Profile looks great bud. I was reading through the thread I think Brutus did again a couple weeks ago as I’m planning to try the 3D flag scheme some time soon. Are you a member on the probro site and if so what’s your user name.

Nope, not a member. Those guys are a little too rowdy for my liking. lol.

 

[Snoopy1]

As most of you know that I am still on the look out to buy a radio. I have a question for the Futaba gentleman. With spectrum radios when we run a number of high powered servos in our planes with two battery’s we use the fail safe receiver with to power leads into the receiver . How do you do this with a futaba equipment. Can there receivers carry the high power required to fly the big planes.

 

[Bluepilot2003]

As most of you know that I am still on the look out to buy a radio. I have a question for the Futaba gentleman. With spectrum radios when we run a number of high powered servos in our planes with two battery’s we use the fail safe receiver with to power leads into the receiver . How do you do this with a futaba equipment. Can there receivers carry the high power required to fly the big planes.

I am using a wolverine switch with 2 life batteries and 2 power leads to a 14ch receiver powering HV Savox servos. I have not had one issue with servo power at all in my 104 ARS.