I'm limited on the corner radius with how the nose is being constructed. I'll unroll the surfaces off the 3D shape and cut them on the CNC out of light ply. They panels will bend to meet and form the nose with some bulkheads. I can nip the corner off the plywood edge, but can't get into the glue joint.
I've hand made molds and a fiberglass cowl for a composites class. It was a blast, but very time consuming. With the CNC the capability of milling molds opens up a lot of possibilities. For now this is a method that I used on the Ultra Stick. It assembles fast, covers easy, and wouldn't be hard to quickly replicate if it gets damaged. I use a 1/4" light plywood and then pocket it out leaving a skeleton structure. The pocketed areas leaves 1/16" thick skin. It's surprisingly light and everything slips together and self aligns. (if you do it right
) That's one big advantage with the CNC router over a laser cutter; the ability to pocket out parts.
That's good to hear on the weight. Even with my welded mount the entire power setup will be a little lighter than the 55.
.7 and 5.23 are correct for my plane, not sure about variation from the factory. Also 1.6” was a close fit inside my slot, I just wanted all the width I could get. It might rub a little.
Thanks for that the 1.6 inches is dead on and everything else just the off set to the four mounting bolts to the front seems strange. Thanks again. Just waiting for the aluminum to show up due to the virus you cannot pick up anything it all needs to be sent to your home.
On my plane the stock gear is quite a bit narrower than the fuselage mounting slot and it's mounted at the rear. The mount holes in the fuselage slot are also offset to the rear. I wanted all the width possible, so I used the full slot and expanded forward. That's why the mount holes look strange on the wider gear.
I agree with what you did and I am going to do the same need all the width possible to maximize the strength.
