Alky6
150cc
Hopefully these show up ok. I used 6mm black depron to make the baffles. Cuts and sands easy, just remember to use foam safe glue (I used CA to glue them in place)! Essentially they are square baffles. The last pic is the aluminum dam and louvres that seems to work the best for cooling in this particular situation. Still haven't replaced the cowl - probably won't until after my 35% JTEC Extra is done.
49dimes
Damn I'm hungry
How you liking that 2n1 set up? and are you using a medium pro flow? should I just go back and read the thread?
Alky6
150cc
No need. I will oblige. I got the complete package including mount from VVRC. It is a pinnacle medium canister. I am getting a couple hundred more RPM with the can over the stock muffs. Super quiet as well. Doesn't bother my neighbors. I really like how it performs and am comfortable to go fly at any time. Would definitely do it again!
49dimes
Damn I'm hungry
witchfingers
70cc twin V2
witchfingers
70cc twin V2
I did widen the "nostrils" on tuesday and have not had a chance to fly it again. If I cut anymore out of the cowl, it will defeat the purpose of having a cowl. I temp gunned it right after landing the 2nd time I flew it and it was at 210 degrees. If this engine will only keep running with the cowl off, it's really not worth keeping in the cub. I know it was designed to fit inside cowls and I love the scale look but "if it quits, it ships!"
49dimes
Damn I'm hungry
Good looking plane! Have you thought about a super cub cowl and baffle it? Just a thought.
witchfingers
70cc twin V2
Thats actually not a bad idea. I wonder if the world models or H9 would fit? It just stumps me because my first 2 flights were great with not even a hiccup but that was the previous weekend that was 5 degrees cooler.
49dimes
Damn I'm hungry
Well I have heard that these 40 twins are some what more tedious to get a tune. Also heard guys changing the carb. But from looking at your cowl there is just not a lot of air going over the cylinder. Rather it looks as if it may mostly be going under them with what little air is getting in because the profile of your inlets is so narrow. The large opening for the cylinders is doing nothing unless the cylinders can stick almost completely out. You probably tried tuning for a overheating condition and nothing seems to work now. Forget about the first experience you had with it running ok. It only confuses your situation. With the cowl off go back and set the needles the way VVRC had them ( if you know; other wise turn them both out 1.5 turns from the fully closed position) and tune it from there with the cowl off. Follow @Terryscustom guide he posted. It is really good way to tune the engine. See if you can block off the area at the lower inlets inside the cowl with heat resistant foam or balsa so more air gets to ( try widening another 1/4 to 3/8 inch also.) the cylinder. No promises here but this should help out your situation. J3 cowls are very hard to get good cooling through unless them cylinders stick out like the real one.