• If you are new to GiantScaleNews.com, please register, introduce yourself, and make yourself at home.

    We're 1st in Giant Scale RC because we've got the best membership on the internet! Take a look around and don't forget to register to get all of the benefits of GSN membership!

    Welcome!

Scale Wendell Hostetler 30% Piper Cherokee Glass Fuselage Build.

dhal22

GSN Sponsor Tier 1
A 14" x 24" of the soft would be swell, thmak you!


Tony, not quite the size you're looking for.

17718006837144963522450377919988.jpg
 

TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
On to the fuel tank. Decided to use a 10 ounce Sullivan oval tank mounted in an unconventional manner. It is vertically mounted ahead of former 2. I use three line tanks and was thinking that two clunks might get tangled up so I make a two line clunk. The tank will get finished with a Sullivan S449 viton tank stopper.

IMG_4521.jpeg
IMG_4522.jpeg
 

TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
The battery in Taranis 2019 SE is going bad after seven years, the transmitters are still offered by FrSky so I purchased a backup transmitter. It really does everything I need and more with no frills, $260, should be set for another 10 years.
 

TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
Started to sand the fuselage in the hope that a nice day shows up soon. Can't wait to get this plane in the air to see how it flies and decided what will be the next build.

A while ago I made a sensor hub from a Seeeduino XIAO board, I soon discover the problem with that board is it is limited to 5 volt input and I accidently plugged it in to 7.4 volts. I recently discovered the Arduino Mini Pro board handles 5 to 12 volt input so I ordered a few of those to make a new hub. Then I remembered the AT-VI sensor boards that I currency use have a Mini Pro board.
IMG_4527.jpeg


On the right side starting from the bottom are two temperature inputs, a blank input and three voltage inputs. The bottom left side are two SPORT outputs and above that is a RPM input on the left and the plug on the right is used to turn a 5 volt supply on and off. With an ohm meter I was able to sort out where each pin is connected and wrote an Arduino sketch to add the third temperature input to the blank input on the right stack. The instructions for the AT-VI indicate that firmware was being developed for the third temp input but that never happened.
 
Top