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Scale Wendell Hostetler 30% Piper Cherokee Glass Fuselage Build.

TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
A fellow builder on the RC Scale Builder site suggested this paint for the wing walk.

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Bought a can on Amazon for $8.00, sprayed a test patch and was quite pleased with the results, looks like 400 grit sandpaper, removed the black peel paint and sprayed with this, I think it is the fifth spraying. It's done now.
 

TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
Started working on the cooling outlet. Cut a 2" x 8" slotin the bottom of the fuselage that straddles the edge of the cowl

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Laid up two layers of 4 ounce cloth and one layer of carbon fiber on a piece of Lexan, this will be used to finish to outlet. Used a Monokote Woodpecker to made the perforated film, worked well and faster than drilling the holes with a 1/8" hollow drill bit.


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This is the same method used on the 1/4 scale Cherokee. Didn't have telemetry but I can only assume it worked well since the plane was flown extensively over a 7 year period.

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A fellow over on the RC Scale Builder site was kind enough to share the baffle plate he made for his FG 61 that I hope to use.
 

TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
Quick update on the starter additions. Have the clutch hub finished, just need to drill and tap a 3mm - .5 hole for the locating pin and install the magnet. Hoping to remove the rocker arms and covers to gain access to the right side cam housing. The rockers pivot on a screw pin that has a slotted head. Broke every tool that fitted into the slot, ordered a few Chapman #89 bits, these look to be a quality tool, I hope the bits work. Once the rocker covers are removed I can determine if the area selected to mount the starter motor and reduction drive is suitable. Right now on hold until the bits arrive.
The prop nut kept the hub engaged on the original design, I planned the extend the threads and make a flange nut that fit into the counter bore on the prop hub. I would like to know what steel the prop shaft is made of. It is 10mm -1.25 thread. Bought a rethreading die at the local Ace hardware, it squealed like a pig once it hit the unthreaded portion of the shaft and it was well lubricated, it broke shortly there after. Purchased HSS threading die but waiting on a handle to turn it, I suspect it will be unsuccessful as well. The fall back plan is to make a nut 12mm in diameter with a larger hex on the end and counterbore the front of the prop to accept the 12 mm nut, the back side will be the standard 10mm to locate the prop.

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TonyHallo

640cc Uber Pimp
More elements of the engine cooling. Fitted and glued in the composite sheet.

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Cut the opening in the firewall. Thinking I will span the holes for the engine with a piece if 3/4" aluminum angle

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Printed the template for engine baffle. I was hoping that a club member could cut this with his laser but after further investigation he has diode laser and apparently you need a CO2 laser to cut fiberglass. Checking other local sources.
Will lay up an oval shaped duct that will seal the baffle to the firewall.

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