ZTW "B" Series 65A ESC
- Thread starter gyro
- Start date
Ohio AV8TOR
Just Do It
I see that the instructions say 5.0V to 6.3V but just curious if anyone has used 2S 7.4V to program using this card?
3DeltaFly
50cc
I own several A series but only one B series ZTW ESC, and it's the OPTO 120A. All these ESCs' have been flawless and eldest in the buch is a good 2 years old.
Has anyone used the B-series program card with a B-series OPTO ESC? I just pick up a program card and the only action I get out of it is the single red LED illuminating. The card doesn't appear to connect to the OPTO 120A ESC as there's no action from the character LED display. Maybe it only works with standard B-series ESCs and not the OPTO versions?
Has anyone used the B-series program card with a B-series OPTO ESC? I just pick up a program card and the only action I get out of it is the single red LED illuminating. The card doesn't appear to connect to the OPTO 120A ESC as there's no action from the character LED display. Maybe it only works with standard B-series ESCs and not the OPTO versions?
gyro
GSN Contributor
I haven't used the B series OPTO, but I know that when using other OPTOs, I always have to make sure there is another power source to the ESC (ie, the 8s battery), not the one from the card. Since it's an opto, I don't think it can receive power from the card... but I may be wrong.
3DeltaFly
50cc
No, you're right. The ZTW OPTO ESCs' don't supply power to the programing card. I powered the card from a 5v. NiCad pack, and the ESC from the drive system batteries. Looking at the output of the card with an oscilloscope, there is an initial burst of negative going PWM like pulses at power up, and then the line remains high at 5v with no further activity. I'll drop Quantum a line and see what they say.
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Hi,
Tim from Quantum here. First off, it's entirely possible that you have a dud card. But there are a couple items you could check to see. First, the opto esc should not be powered (ie: connected to the primary battery) when programming. It gets all the power it needs for programming from the power source on the programming card. The red wire should be intact on the throttle servo connection lead (as it should remain always-optos need to draw power from the receiver when running). I usually use a 2s lipo with a jst (red bec) connector to power the card. I know 2S is over what the manual spec is but it's never been an issue- but too low voltage has been. I know you scoped the voltage- but...it was backpowered at the time and that could interfere with the "handshake" when connectin the unit. Also, changing settings requires an affirmative setting change, so I would only expect to see pwm from the actual flashing (like when you press the "ok" button)
Hook it all up as per instructions. If you don't have a response to "menu" button inputs, and digits in the led's, something's up with the unit. If it works now- remember- menu to change between the modes, value to scroll through the options, and ok to save that option. Never change motor timing without knowing exactly what you are doing. Auto is always the best except for very unusual cases <1% of the time.
-Tim
Tim from Quantum here. First off, it's entirely possible that you have a dud card. But there are a couple items you could check to see. First, the opto esc should not be powered (ie: connected to the primary battery) when programming. It gets all the power it needs for programming from the power source on the programming card. The red wire should be intact on the throttle servo connection lead (as it should remain always-optos need to draw power from the receiver when running). I usually use a 2s lipo with a jst (red bec) connector to power the card. I know 2S is over what the manual spec is but it's never been an issue- but too low voltage has been. I know you scoped the voltage- but...it was backpowered at the time and that could interfere with the "handshake" when connectin the unit. Also, changing settings requires an affirmative setting change, so I would only expect to see pwm from the actual flashing (like when you press the "ok" button)
Hook it all up as per instructions. If you don't have a response to "menu" button inputs, and digits in the led's, something's up with the unit. If it works now- remember- menu to change between the modes, value to scroll through the options, and ok to save that option. Never change motor timing without knowing exactly what you are doing. Auto is always the best except for very unusual cases <1% of the time.
-Tim
3DeltaFly
50cc
OK, I connected the card to the B-series 120A OPTO ESC's throttle lead (all 3 connections intact), then powered up the card from a 2S LiFe pack (6.7 VDC under the rather miniscule load). No go, the PWM on the signal line occurres only briefly when the card is first powered up, then no further activity even when pressing "menu". And never any indication from the 4-character LED display. I'll drop a note to Quantum's customer service.
gyro
GSN Contributor
ZTW recommends Auto
ryan_m
100cc
with what motor? That will depend on the motor being used.