IMAC Double Build, Carden Pro 124" Extra 300 40%

[orthobird]

Sorry for the intrusion. But covering a plane right now and would really like some help. What is the Tom Wheeler trick and is this trick for Ultacote. Thanks.

sorry, for late reply, with Ultracote, you need to spray the surface with soapy water, and squeeze the air bubbles out after you apply the Ultracote on top of the 1st layer.

again, please be aware, that the following is an excerpt from mr Tom Wheeler. I cannot take any credit for what will follow. I will place it in quotations:



"Here is the real trick in applying Ultracote over Ultracote or MonoKote that I have been using for building over 300 aircraft for customers and myself in the past 20 years.
Here is what I use, Ultracote as the top layer, heat gun, spray bottle with soapy water, and a squeegee about 3”x3” made out of 3/32” balsa (use the grain vertical to the film surface).
Like when using MonoKote as the top layer, you “float” the film on top of the base film, but unlike MonoKote instead of using Windex that has an ammonia base you use a spray bottle with water and a very small amount of dish soap in it. The technique once you have the base film covering on the model is to spray that finish with the soapy water, place the Ultracoat piece that is already cut to size and shape in position. Use the balsa squeegee you made to get the bulk of the soapy water out, now comes the trick, while working the water out with the squeegee, use the heat gun first at a fairly good distance and slowly move it in closer as you squeegee the water out. What happens with Ultracote that while you are working the air bubbles out the adhesive begins to activate and you will be able to tell when the Ultracote is fully adhered to the surface. This technique is easy and fast and you are done with each added piece now, and you can move on to the next.
I use both MonoKote and Ultracote, and this soap process only works with Ultracote, for MonoKote I use Windex and wait till the next day and go over the edges to make sure it sealed.
Tom"

 

[Snoopy1]

sorry, for late reply, with Ultracote, you need to spray the surface with soapy water, and squeeze the air bubbles out after you apply the Ultracote on top of the 1st layer.

again, please be aware, that the following is an excerpt from mr Tom Wheeler. I cannot take any credit for what will follow. I will place it in quotations:



"Here is the real trick in applying Ultracote over Ultracote or MonoKote that I have been using for building over 300 aircraft for customers and myself in the past 20 years.
Here is what I use, Ultracote as the top layer, heat gun, spray bottle with soapy water, and a squeegee about 3”x3” made out of 3/32” balsa (use the grain vertical to the film surface).
Like when using MonoKote as the top layer, you “float” the film on top of the base film, but unlike MonoKote instead of using Windex that has an ammonia base you use a spray bottle with water and a very small amount of dish soap in it. The technique once you have the base film covering on the model is to spray that finish with the soapy water, place the Ultracoat piece that is already cut to size and shape in position. Use the balsa squeegee you made to get the bulk of the soapy water out, now comes the trick, while working the water out with the squeegee, use the heat gun first at a fairly good distance and slowly move it in closer as you squeegee the water out. What happens with Ultracote that while you are working the air bubbles out the adhesive begins to activate and you will be able to tell when the Ultracote is fully adhered to the surface. This technique is easy and fast and you are done with each added piece now, and you can move on to the next.
I use both MonoKote and Ultracote, and this soap process only works with Ultracote, for MonoKote I use Windex and wait till the next day and go over the edges to make sure it sealed.
Tom"

Thanks for finding that.

 

[Terryscustom]

This works but what most people don't understand is that the ammonia actually activates the adhesive in the monokote. The ONLY thing that activates the adhesive in ultracote is heat. So after you squeegee the water out of the ultra you need to go over it with an iron at just the right temp. Too much heat and the residual water steams and creates bubbles, too little heat and it does not stick very well. The heat gun part of this is what I never tried in the past. May have to revisit this myself.

 

[Snoopy1]

So what I conclude from this is that to do Ultracote over Ultracote place it with water and tiny bit soap squeegee as much water out as possible. Then with a heat gun while rubbing it dry get to the right temperature to activate the glue. Sounds difficult to me instead use an iron set at 201 degrees and you should be good.
Will be trying this tomorrow because I am at that stage with the ViperSt see how it goes.

 

[orthobird]

My wife gave me the green light. I told her, what I want for Christmas is the opportunity to finish covering these two airplane! She said: "DONE!!" What a wife, I tell you! Used a lot of tricks learning from @Mark Boguszewski. The trick with the mineral spirits is amazing. WOW, that really helps remove the last of the balsa dust. I first used an air compressor, then a tack cloth, and then a clean cloth with mineral spirits. Thanks Mark!!!

 

[Snoopy1]

As you can see I am the stage to start to put the striping on the plane just about the same as you.

 

[orthobird]

Snoopy, I like it man!! We are neck and neck!!

Here is where I will quit for the evening.

 

[Snoopy1]

Looking good I will have slow down now because family will start to show up to day for the Christmas period but after new year I will be back at it have a merry Christmas and a happy new year every one.

 

[Snoopy1]

My wife gave me the green light. I told her, what I want for Christmas is the opportunity to finish covering these two airplane! She said: "DONE!!" What a wife, I tell you! Used a lot of tricks learning from @Mark Boguszewski. The trick with the mineral spirits is amazing. WOW, that really helps remove the last of the balsa dust. I first used an air compressor, then a tack cloth, and then a clean cloth with mineral spirits. Thanks Mark!!!


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One question did you Run the Ultracoat down into the round holes or cut it flush with bottom if you did, did you do anything special to stick around the edges.

 

[orthobird]

One question did you Run the Ultracoat down into the round holes or cut it flush with bottom if you did, did you do anything special to stick around the edges.

Yes, this is a good question. This is something I learned on my own, purely by accident. This is a problem, and I learned to use an old soldering iron, and poke into the hole, and use the side of the iron, to melt the covering onto the side of the hole. This seals it, and no worries of the covering coming undone. Has worked on the the airplanes I have covered doing this, and not once, has the covering come undone in these areas after hundreds of flights.