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IMAC Double Build, Carden Pro 124" Extra 300 40%

Rusty 73

100cc
I should mention that I did a great deal of research, trying to determine what the ideal header length should be, for a DA 150 with KS 1090 tuned pipes. Klaus from K&S told me about 15". Then, I communicated with Dave at Desert Aircraft, and he told me, the header length can be 12", or at least, that is what they determined from testing with this set up.

DA says:

"We use the standard length (12”) headers from MTW with the KS1090’s. The headers were shorter a few years ago, but most customers preferred them at 12”. Shorter can sometimes give a bit more rpm, but the power curve can get “peaky”.

Prop selection is a factor for optimal header length. A general theme for proper tuning is smaller props/high rpm need shorter headers and larger prop loads/lower rpm need longer headers.

Thanks

Dave"



I ended up cutting mine to 12.5", figuring, if I had to, I can come back and cut 1/2" more if need be.


I been hearing the sane thing about the header length , a long header is better for torque and long pulling maybe even when using a three bladed prop .
The shorter length would be good for quick throttle response but can go lean alot easier with tuned pipe resulting in high temp and possible rebuild .
Dave Sullivan and i were disscussing these scenarios about tuned pipes a few months ago , I'm gald you talked to Dave at DA but their finding with MTW pipes .

Noticed that you only have one mounting point in your tunnel ! Will that be enough support without the pipes moving around and appling more pressure on the header .

Well it's snowing here I guess we will have a white Christmas , I have throughly enjoyed all your build posts Cam. Build fast my friend Santa is coming.
 
I been hearing the sane thing about the header length , a long header is better for torque and long pulling maybe even when using a three bladed prop .
The shorter length would be good for quick throttle response but can go lean alot easier with tuned pipe resulting in high temp and possible rebuild .
Dave Sullivan and i were disscussing these scenarios about tuned pipes a few months ago , I'm gald you talked to Dave at DA but their finding with MTW pipes .

Noticed that you only have one mounting point in your tunnel ! Will that be enough support without the pipes moving around and appling more pressure on the header .

Well it's snowing here I guess we will have a white Christmas , I have throughly enjoyed all your build posts Cam. Build fast my friend Santa is coming.


Hello Rusty!

Merry Christmas.

There are two airplanes that I am building at the same time, therefore, the pictures can be confusing. One airplane will have a DA 150L with KS 1090 tuned pipes. this one has a way longer tunnel I had to build, which was a real PITA, but, it came out good. With the tuned pipe, there are two sets of Desert aircraft laser cut plywood mounts with holes and with silicon tubing between the pipe and the plywood mount.

the other airplane will be getting a DA 200 with KS 95 canisters. this one, has the comfort mounts, from KS, and all that is required is one mount per canister. This is probably the picture that you saw. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Just started the covering of the other fuselage. This one will be a bit more complicated, like Emeril Lagasse would say, we are going to turn it up a notch with this one..... Wish me luck...

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this one will definitely be complicated.
 

Rusty 73

100cc
Hello Rusty!

Merry Christmas.

There are two airplanes that I am building at the same time, therefore, the pictures can be confusing. One airplane will have a DA 150L with KS 1090 tuned pipes. this one has a way longer tunnel I had to build, which was a real PITA, but, it came out good. With the tuned pipe, there are two sets of Desert aircraft laser cut plywood mounts with holes and with silicon tubing between the pipe and the plywood mount.

the other airplane will be getting a DA 200 with KS 95 canisters. this one, has the comfort mounts, from KS, and all that is required is one mount per canister. This is probably the picture that you saw. Sorry for the confusion.

Merry Christmas Cam
Yes Santa's elfs have been busy wrapping presents and socking stuffers for the big day , I'm part of this crewalong with my wife we been going since 10 am .
There's a lot of gifts not to many for me but my boys are getting the bulk of them .

Yes the one picture only had the two metal mounts that it looked like you can tighten the bolts through the venting holes on the bottom , very cool .
Like the sketch you did for the second one you are a talented drafts person .
The colours do look good and yes you will be turning up a notch for her but your doing great work my friend .Best of luck for the second bird your well on your way.
 
Merry Christmas Rusty and Merry Christmas to you all. My wife made the most amazing Christmas lunch, and I was able to bring my 83 year old father to spend christmas eve with us. First time he has done so in over 12 years. SO that was nice.

Rusty, I must be honest with you, and Inform you that I am not that talented. Those sketches were done by a pilot in California, Cameron Irwin. He deserves credit for those. I am merely trying to reproduce what he has done.

In the morning, I spent 1 hour and again just now, about 30 minutes, to get this far....



this 1st layer is true red, and it is applied to the white using ammonia in Windex. Meaning, I added real ammonia into the Windex bottle.
IMG_2844.JPG
IMG_2845.JPG
IMG_2846.JPG
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I then trimmed the front end, and placed the canopy. I will mark the area to line up with the canopy, where the paint will be for this design.


IMG_2848.JPG
IMG_2849.JPG





SO now, i placed the metallic red, and, again, using Windex (with real ammonia put inside), then, in few hours, I will come back, and trim the metallic red, so that is is lined up with the bottom of the canopy 1" border.

IMG_2850.JPG



tomorrow, I will do the bottom with the blue!! Should be fun.


With this technique, one has to be real patient. The ammonia is slow to react and seal the monokote to the top surface.

Also, you have to squeegee out the fluid between layers.
 

Rusty 73

100cc
Merry Christmas Cam and everyone at Giant scale forum , we have snow at it's cold . I have my 84 year mom over for Christmas eve supper and then i will get tomorrow around noon for the rest of the gift opening. These days with my Mother are precious times with her and my family ..

Thats cool if you didn't sketch the drawing they are still a get guide line and it looks like you have a great idea of how the color scheme should look.
The red with the Metaliac red on top looks rich , I love the depth it give to the design .

Do you allow it completely dry, then do you use the iron or heat gun to shrink the momokote or just leave it along .
Your going a great job
 
You need to let it dry and cure, for a good 12 hours or so. I then will use low heat iron to seal the edges, and that is it.

I would not trust to not go over it with an iron. but maybe it would be ok?


I just went back in, to do the trim. By this time, it is on there good enough, that if I handle it, it does not move, but the edges, are not adhered. I would not want to do that tomorrow morning, because if it is adhered, then i will be in trouble!


this is what it looks like now, after trimming it.

IMG_2851.JPG
 
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