bbrown2828
150cc
I hate opening my cowl up and seeing this
doesn't matter what I used for a muffle gasket.. it eventually does this.. I'm using black gasket maker now
Exhaust leak grrr
- Thread starter bbrown2828
- Start date
Dan767
70cc twin V2
Remove the gasket, and clean the cylinder head and bolts with a good cleaner that will remove oil and it's residue. (I use carb cleaner, but that's up to you). Get some Permatex Ultra Copper (any auto parts store) and coat both sides of a new gasket and reattach the muffler. Allow to sit overnight if possible. Re-torque the bolts and go fly. Some use only the Ultra Copper, I prefer to use the gasket as well. Muffler doesn't leak and stays tight.
i had similar issues. i went with no gasket. this is what i have done: remove the muffler/header
then, get a flat file, and file the surface down clean. will not take much. also do same on engine side. make sure to cover the port to prevent any filings from entering the cylinder, and when you are done, you have to make sure there are no filings in the header or muffler area, as these can get back into the cylinder and act as third body wear particles.
once both surfaces are flat/smooth/clean, then i obtained some red rtv material from walmart: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-High-Temp-Red-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Marker/16879904
the walmart is across the street from where i work, so that was a no brainer for me.
then i will apply a small amount on the header side, then i put red loctite on screws, and assemble.
when i assembled this, i actually do not let the muffler touch the engine at first. i engage the screws first, then slowly tighten one screw at a time, until the screws compress the muffler onto the cylinder housing/exhaust port.
wait 24 hours or so, then run engine on ground or fly it, but as soon as you turn off the motor, re-tighten the muffler bolts, while everything is still hot. ( do not tighten the bolts while the motor is running).
then, recheck after 5 flights or so and inspect to see if there is a leak.
i am certain others will chime in, as there is more than one way to skin a cat, but at least this is the way that has worked for me.
then, get a flat file, and file the surface down clean. will not take much. also do same on engine side. make sure to cover the port to prevent any filings from entering the cylinder, and when you are done, you have to make sure there are no filings in the header or muffler area, as these can get back into the cylinder and act as third body wear particles.
once both surfaces are flat/smooth/clean, then i obtained some red rtv material from walmart: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-High-Temp-Red-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Marker/16879904
the walmart is across the street from where i work, so that was a no brainer for me.
then i will apply a small amount on the header side, then i put red loctite on screws, and assemble.
when i assembled this, i actually do not let the muffler touch the engine at first. i engage the screws first, then slowly tighten one screw at a time, until the screws compress the muffler onto the cylinder housing/exhaust port.
wait 24 hours or so, then run engine on ground or fly it, but as soon as you turn off the motor, re-tighten the muffler bolts, while everything is still hot. ( do not tighten the bolts while the motor is running).
then, recheck after 5 flights or so and inspect to see if there is a leak.
i am certain others will chime in, as there is more than one way to skin a cat, but at least this is the way that has worked for me.
O
Ohio AV8TOR
:yes-i-fully-agree-s I had an issue with my DA60 and was completely solved with removing the gasket and using Ultra Copper.
bbrown2828
150cc
There r no gaskets I will try the copper instead of the black
Phil.Griffin
70cc twin V2
This is exactly what I do also. I've not had a muffler come loose in years.
kwj48
70cc twin V2
Here's it is. http://www.all-spec.com/products/81878.html?gclid=CJ-itN243sACFZJr7AodU00Aqw
I get mine at the auto store.