Glassing and Painting techniques

[Jlc]

Why not glass the wings and then paint the entire plane? That's my plan with the 2.5 I once had time to build...

I haven't completely dismissed that idea. I figured I would gain about 2.5lbs using some of the weight figures posted in this thread. Every time I iron my other plane makes me want to paint the Raven,

 

[BikeRacer]

After reading this thread, I'm pretty sure im gonna glass and paint my next IMAC ship. Of course weight isn't as big a deal when flying precision in my opinion. I think a couple of pounds would be ok. I absolutely hate covering a plane, and paint can look so stinkin good when done well.

 

[Jlc]

After reading this thread, I'm pretty sure im gonna glass and paint my next IMAC ship. Of course weight isn't as big a deal when flying precision in my opinion. I think a couple of pounds would be ok. I absolutely hate covering a plane, and paint can look so stinkin good when done well.

If I go the paint route I think I can glass it and get it ready but will for sure have to hire the painting done.

 

[Snoopy1]

Sorry for not getting back to BikeRacer sooner but. The paint booth that I build in the garage is 20by 20 by 10 ft tall it is a aluminum tube structure and covered with plastic drop sheets top sides and the floor. That is the only way I can get a good finish. The plastic is held on with clothe pegs.

 

[BikeRacer]

Thanks Snoopy. What are you using to move the air around? I just have a couple of box fans with regular house filters for now running straight across.

 

[Snoopy1]

Use a furnace fan with variable speed with standard furnace filters taped to the front. Cut a hole at one end and tape the fan into the hole. Need to control the speed a little. If do not you suck the plastic in.

 

[Jetpainter]

I'll add one thing, week two actually, a high quality respirator and Nitrile gloves, not Latex.

 

[Snoopy1]

Got a question most of our planes are styrofoam wings stabs and rudder. These are easy to paint some glass cloth prime it and paint many ways to do. But most of our fuselages are open construction. This makes things difficult. Cover the sides with 1/16 balsa and then glass and paint?. This will add some weight. Fill the holes with some 1/16 balsa this is painfull to do and get sealed and smooth.. Most times I have filled holes to glassed the balsa get waves and then looks bad with a glossy finish. Or stits cover the fuse this can also add some weight. 3/4oz cloth with resin is lighter than stits and sealer. Stits cloth is 1.38oz/sq-yd. It would interesting to know if filled holes with balsa and 3/4oz glass is lighter than a polyester covering and sealer. The paint on either will be the same.

 

[Snoopy1]

Just did the mathe balsa at 8 lbs /q-ft is equal to 5.67 oz/sq-yd at 1/16 thick. The balsa route is not the way.

 

[dhal22]

I use 3M Fine Line for trim to pain masking and just simple low tack painters 1" blue for holding down paper to the Fine Line and anything else. Fine Line in narrower widths can make some very tight radius turns. Make that up if necessary with thicker to get that tight look.

Is that the crepe paper tape? I have a few rolls of this type of tape and it is excellent for tight turns.