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Scale Wendell Hostetler 30% Piper Cherokee Glass Fuselage Build.

TonyHallo

150cc
It's done. The inner surface was polished with sandpaper and WD40 to 800 grit to remove the tool marks, it is about 3/4" longer than the stock venturi.
Working on the cowl mold as well, it it ready to begin molding, all waxed and PVA applied. Once the new cowl is complete I can mount the engine and glass the firewall in place.
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TonyHallo

150cc
I started laying up the cowl mold. Put the tooling coat on, yesterday morning followed with a layer of 1 1/2 ounce cloth. When I got back home in the afternoon, the top of the cowl puckered in. I didn't add any reinforcement to the cowl so it is only .025" thick over most of the surface area, the area around the nose bowl is much stiffer due to the air inlets and the headlamp dish. At any rate ripped the two coats off and starting over, glassing 40 ounce cloth on the inside to stiffen up however. Going to start the wing construction while regrouping on the cowl.
 

TonyHallo

150cc
Wing construction Step 1 - print the templates from the Compufoil program and tape together. The programs defaults to an 8 1/2" x 11" sheet of paper, if it can be changed I don't know how. No big deal just takes a little time. The root template is a NASA 2315 airfoil that was stretched using the program to form the cheeks near the fuselage, the second airfoil at the start of Hersey bar is a NASA 2315, the tip is a NASA 2314 airfoil. The wing tube hole will be cut at 7 degree angle. The landing gear block with be captured between ribs 2 and 3.
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Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Wing construction Step 1 - print the templates from the Compufoil program and tape together. The programs defaults to an 8 1/2" x 11" sheet of paper, if it can be changed I don't know how. No big deal just takes a little time. The root template is a NASA 2315 airfoil that was stretched using the program to form the cheeks near the fuselage, the second airfoil at the start of Hersey bar is a NASA 2315, the tip is a NASA 2314 airfoil. The wing tube hole will be cut at 7 degree angle. The landing gear block with be captured between ribs 2 and 3.
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You have your work cut out for you. Get all the templates done and the cut the wing tube hole at an angle and then get the spars to all line up properly. The sport plane that I am building at this time was done the same way. Except for cutting ribs is tedious and difficult to get them all to line up properly. This time I copied the aero foil from cmpufoil straight into Autocad. Then add all the spars and cutouts as required. Then sent the drawing to fellow in Ottawa. He can cut a set of ribs right from the cad drawing, what a time and work saver and all the ribs were perfect. Will never cut a set of ribs from scratch again.
 

TonyHallo

150cc
Don't believe I will add spars. Ribs two and three will be 1/8" plywood to distribute the landing block load. The basswood landing gear blocks were salvaged from the first 30% model shown below. The gear strut are angled 3 degrees outward and it took some to make them so hopefully I can save a day of fabrication. I plan to apply a carbon veil under the sheeting from the root to 12" beyond rib 3.
After looking at the templates this decided to increase the wing tube diameter to 1 1/4" and plan to use an aluminum tube .058" wall. It has a safety factor of 2 at 5g loading, I don't expect 5g's during flight however the impact loading during a hard might be a few g's.

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