Scale 50cc Scratch Build From My Own Design Revisited

[Jetpainter]

I haven't done much in the last few days, but I did get the holes drilled and test mounted the louvered covers for the landing gear bolts. I used some Allen head screws from Bob Violett Models. The location of the screws meant that I could not use Philips screws because I couldn't get to them when the gear was installed.

 

[Jetpainter]

This weekend I ordered pretty much everything I need to finish this project, though I'm sure I forgot something.

I'm going to use a Booma RC duel battery pin flag switch so I can keep it a subtle as possible. I wont go so for as to hide it under the wing. My Carf Extra had the switches under the wing and they were a pain to use. Literally, My back and knees suck so it was painful to turn the airplane on.

I've been thinking of mounting the fuel dot inside the airplane. It would mean removing the hatch every flight, but with an enclosed tuned pipe I would probably be taking the hatch off to let the hot air out anyway, we'll see.

I still need to glue the hinges in one stab and both wings. Hopefully I'll find the ambition to do that this week.

 

[Snoopy1]

Would you explane more about the heat build up in a plane with a canister. Just build a plane with a canister it is open to the inside, but I haven't done any thing to vent it after a flight . It is concerning but have no experience with this situations.
Which servos did you end up buying if I may ask.

 

[Jetpainter]

Would you explane more about the heat build up in a plane with a canister. Just build a plane with a canister it is open to the inside, but I haven't done any thing to vent it after a flight . It is concerning but have no experience with this situations.
Which servos did you end up buying if I may ask.

If you can keep enough airflow through the tunnel it's not a big issue, especially with canisters. Tuned pipes on the other hand can build more heat. A buddy of mine spoke to DA about it once and they told him the header on a tuned pipe setup can run much higher temps than a can setup. Then when you add the sheer length of a pipe (well over 30" with the header in my case), your filling the radio compartment with hot aluminum. They say you should have 3 times the exhaust area than you do intake, but unfortunately that is not always possible when your building some subjects.

I'm planning on adding some more exhaust vents in the bottom rear of my fuselage to get more hot air out.

For servos on this one, I'm running the ones I pulled out of my Aeroworks Extra 300 that also donated the engine and pipe. Hitec 7955's on the elevators, JR 8411's on the ailerons and a Hitec HS-7956SHR on the rudder.

I did try to order the new servos for the Hangar 9 Extra 300X today, but I haven't heard back from the people I want to buy from. That will be six Hitec 7954sh's, one 7950th and one 5665mh for the throttle.

 

[Snoopy1]

I thought you would go with the ProModler.
Thanks for the info on heat in fuse. I believe I have enough to cool everything while flying but after flying when the plane is hot and you just let sit there after a flight everything inside must get very hot.

 

[Jetpainter]

I'm using a Booma RC dual battery pin flag switch. They offer them with either JR or Deans Ultra inputs and outputs. I wanted one with Ultra's in and JR out, but couldn't find one anywhere. I bought one with Ultra's in and out and changed the outputs to JR's.

The LED light for the switch turned into a longer project than I thought. After drilling the hole and popping in the bezel, then putting the LED in from the back side, the lock ring wouldn't fit. And of course where I decided to put it I could barely get to the backside to see what the problem was. After VERY carefully removing the bezel, I figured out that the little raised ring on the LED was too big in diameter. After sanding it down everything went together fine.

 

[BalsaDust]

Yes I'm using cut that switch as well. I just bought it with jr ends on both ends and then on my input side I cut them off and put EC3 like I like to use

 

[Snoopy1]

I had exactly the same problem with the Booma LED. I just cut the back off and pushed the plastic bezel in pushed the led in from the back and tiny drop of thin ca and it was done. I ruined the bezel buy trying to get that dam ring on so I had no choice but to cut a little of the back.

 

[Jetpainter]

I have been making a little progress lately. I mounted the ignition, built the tank, made a mount for the Powerbox kill switch, installed the LED for the kill switch and roughly laid out most of the wiring.

I ended up just strapping the ignition to the front of the firewall, because there just wasn't any good way to do it. I wanted to mount it on top, but the plug lead is to short. I built a nice ply mount to attach to the front of the firewall, but I couldn't use it because it made the ignition box block access to the carb needles. So, it's strapped to the front.

Yesterday I starred at it for an hour trying to figure out where the vent line was going to go. Boxing in the pipe tunnel blocked all access to the bottom of the fuselage. I finally decided it had to go out the engine box, but it needed to be clear of the battery mount. It took some thought, but I'm happy with the results. I still need to glue the tubing in so it won't move around.

I also decided to mount the fuel dot inside the hatch so I made a ply bracket for that. I haven't glued the bracket in yet, but I think it's going where I have it in the pictures.

The wiring still needs lots of tidying up, plus I'm still waiting for my receiver mount.

You'll notice that the tank has both Viton and Tygon in it. The Viton was all I had, and if the short piece of Tygon gets hard it won't hurt a thing.

 

[Alky6]

Very clean! Cool idea to keep the fuel dot inside since you plan to pull the hatch off anyway. Is the new style fortitude tank have an aluminum cap or is it still plastic?