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65" Vyper Discussion Thread

Bushwacker

Bushwacker

3DRCF Moderator
Thanks so much guys, both are great tips. As I am a nOOb to balsa wood working I think I'll do the socket and use it as a puller. Think I'll have more control of removing those nuts. I really don't mind going the slow rout. Although in the field; tapping them out the way you explained sounds good to.

Awesome stuff thank you.


Worked like a charm guys. :thumbup:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Bushwacker

Bushwacker

3DRCF Moderator
Well I might as well get this embarrassing part out of the way. The build went really good except for a few things on the back end of the bird. As I said this is my first balsa ARF build and I was worried about the hinges binding or being too close, so much so that I messed up pretty good. As you can see in the pics below the gaps are pretty wide. On the rudder and elevator I didn't push them in far enough so now they don't line up perfectly. I honestly don't know how this will affect the flight characteristics of the plane. I used Gorilla Glue to set the hinges in the stab and rudder, then used thin CA to join the stab to the fuselage joint Top/Bottom. As per the manual.

What do you think, how bad is it?

RudderGaps.jpg

ElevatorGaps.jpg
 
gyro

gyro

GSN Contributor
Bushwacker said:
Well I might as well get this embarrassing part out of the way. The build went really good except for a few things on the back end of the bird. As I said this is my first balsa ARF build and I was worried about the hinges binding or being too close, so much so that I messed up pretty good. As you can see in the pics below the gaps are pretty wide. On the rudder and elevator I didn't push them in far enough so now they don't line up perfectly. I honestly don't know how this will affect the flight characteristics of the plane. I used Gorilla Glue to set the hinges in the stab and rudder, then used thin CA to join the stab to the fuselage joint Top/Bottom. As per the manual.

What do you think, how bad is it?

View attachment 31818

View attachment 31819
Click to expand...

As long as they all move freely, you'll be absolutely fine as long as you seal the hinge gaps.

Are you familiar with how to do that?
 
Bushwacker

Bushwacker

3DRCF Moderator
Oh good. Sealing hinge gaps --- Seen a video on it once that's about it. Don't know what the best tape is to do with either. Think the tricky part will be getting the bend just right down between the gaps... Right? The wings came already done, which was nice. Really not a fan of the nylon wing bolts, need to change that up too. Your just full of all kinds of good tips aren't ya... :thumbup::thumbup: Love it man thank you.
 
SnowDog

SnowDog

Moderator
Bushwacker, first of all you are gonna love this plane! I have one, with the same motor as you and I love it. Regarding the tape, you can use blenderm or covering or even a thin strip of clear packing tape. Make sure you fully extend the control surface then apply the tape and you should be good to go!
Regarding the nylon wing bolts, they are fully adequate for the job and have never failed p.m. mine.
 
3dNater

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
I like the nylon wing bolts as well... metal ones like to vibrate loose. Keep in mind there is not a lot of stress on those bolts... they just keep the wings snug. The wing tube does the heavy lifting.
 
Bushwacker

Bushwacker

3DRCF Moderator
All right fella's, I trust ya. You have given such solid info Im not going even question it. Thanks much. This blenderm tape, I should be able to pick that up at any local hobby shop right?

I was thinking about the setup on this plane last night. The book calls for a low rate of 70% and high rate of 100%. Well this is my first larger plane and the motor/prop combo is stronger than the stock Hacker A50-16S Motor it will be generating more speed. I'm thinking maybe I should start out with a low rate of about 45 to 50% and because I have a DX 8 which gives me three different rates to play with I can set the other two progressively higher. Atleast till I get the maiden done and get the plane dialed in. Whatcha your thoughts on that.
 
Bloosee

Bloosee

70cc twin V2
Bushwacker said:
All right fella's, I trust ya. You have given such solid info Im not going even question it. Thanks much. This blenderm tape, I should be able to pick that up at any local hobby shop right?

I was thinking about the setup on this plane last night. The book calls for a low rate of 70% and high rate of 100%. Well this is my first larger plane and the motor/prop combo is stronger than the stock Hacker A50-16S Motor it will be generating more speed. I'm thinking maybe I should start out with a low rate of about 45 to 50% and because I have a DX 8 which gives me three different rates to play with I can set the other two progressively higher. Atleast till I get the maiden done and get the plane dialed in. Whatcha your thoughts on that.
Click to expand...

Rates is a measure of how far the control travels, either in inches or degree of deflection. I like to start with out with low rates of about 15 degrees in the ailerons 13 degrees for the elevator and 30 degrees of rudder. I have the small Vyper and it requires VERY little surface movement to fly like it's on rails yet still have the control authority you need.
 
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