74" Edge 540

[econpatric]

Ok two final questions for a while... I hope... What is the best method for installing hinges on the tail fins? I am afraid that if I do one half at a time (what I mean here is glue the hinge points in the vertical stab, and then after dry, glue them into the control surface) I will limit throw, or not get them even. The 330SC manual seems to show that the both halves are glued together at the same time, but with this I fear that any excess glue would cause trouble in the hinge gap. Would you guys glue both halves or one at a time?

Should the elevator joiner be epoxied in to one elevator, or would you use medium CA all around?

Thanks Again... hopefully this should do me for a while!

 

[SteveT.]

Thanks Guys!

More questions: I am wondering about using two servos for the elevator control. I have all of the equipment (servos, extensions, etc.), but because weight is a concern, is there a need? Is it still good advice to go through all of the joints before the firewall with thin CA? I would do this ob the electric conversion extension, but not sure if I need it before the firewall.

As the 74" Edges tend to come out a bit tail heavy, another servo in the tail would only exacerbate this. And as marked, on the motor box extension, top is top, left is left as if you were sitting in the cockpit. Epoxy all around is what I used. As to the hinges, there is an article I wrote explaining in detail how to do the hinges, and other aspects of building this plane here on 3DRCForums.

SteveT.

 

[econpatric]

As the 74" Edges tend to come out a bit tail heavy, another servo in the tail would only exacerbate this. And as marked, on the motor box extension, top is top, left is left as if you were sitting in the cockpit. Epoxy all around is what I used. As to the hinges, there is an article I wrote explaining in detail how to do the hinges, and other aspects of building this plane here on 3DRCForums.

SteveT.

Nice article SteveT! I guess I need to search a little harder before asking. :ashamed: Your article sums up a lot of my questions. I also found it helpful to look at the 25% AJ Slick manual, as that almost seems a better fit for this plane.

In replacing the new firewall on the electric extension, did you cut the old one out, or just glue a new wood plate over it? I think I may just fill in the holes with heavy dowel or carbon fiber rod and epoxy on mine. But am curious if this is not enough?

I also ran into an issue last night. When dry fitting my control horns into the rudder, I had about an 1/8" of wood chip out of the center portion between the two slots. I didn't feel that I was overly hard on them while inserting them, nor did they come out really hard. The two horn halves pinched the wood enough to break a portion of it out, as it was stuck in between the horn halves when I removed them.

My plan is to just use a good amount of 30 min epoxy and roll with it. Should I be concerned?

 

[Drew]

I also ran into an issue last night. When dry fitting my control horns into the rudder, I had about an 1/8" of wood chip out of the center portion between the two slots. I didn't feel that I was overly hard on them while inserting them, nor did they come out really hard. The two horn halves pinched the wood enough to break a portion of it out, as it was stuck in between the horn halves when I removed them.

My plan is to just use a good amount of 30 min epoxy and roll with it. Should I be concerned?

Ive had this happen on almost every model with these type of horns. I typically just glue the wood the comes out back in with CA. Then make sure it all goes back together fine and epoxy. Never an issue. If you didn't save that wood, just make a small piece to replace it.

 

[Drew]

One other thing to check in these kits is the horn being to long and sticking out the other end bulging up the covering. Just an FYI, sand the ends down if there to long and bottom out.

 

[G.P.]

I also ran into an issue last night. When dry fitting my control horns into the rudder, I had about an 1/8" of wood chip out of the center portion between the two slots. I didn't feel that I was overly hard on them while inserting them, nor did they come out really hard. The two horn halves pinched the wood enough to break a portion of it out, as it was stuck in between the horn halves when I removed them.

I'm pretty sure that thin layer of wood is just sheeting and not the structural part of the structure. I've had it happen on most of my builds.

 

[econpatric]

About the wing tube, I just clean them with alcohol and use silicone spray lubricant. They are sometimes a little tight when new and with lubricant will eventually work-in and be just fine.

I picked up the silicon spray today.... WOW! What a difference. I worked it a little and it's now as I would expect. Thanks again for yet another great tip Sir.

 

[SteveT.]

Nice article SteveT! I guess I need to search a little harder before asking. :ashamed: Your article sums up a lot of my questions. I also found it helpful to look at the 25% AJ Slick manual, as that almost seems a better fit for this plane.

In replacing the new firewall on the electric extension, did you cut the old one out, or just glue a new wood plate over it? I think I may just fill in the holes with heavy dowel or carbon fiber rod and epoxy on mine. But am curious if this is not enough?

I also ran into an issue last night. When dry fitting my control horns into the rudder, I had about an 1/8" of wood chip out of the center portion between the two slots. I didn't feel that I was overly hard on them while inserting them, nor did they come out really hard. The two horn halves pinched the wood enough to break a portion of it out, as it was stuck in between the horn halves when I removed them.

My plan is to just use a good amount of 30 min epoxy and roll with it. Should I be concerned?

I removed the firewall using Golden West Debonder...

As to the broken piece...if you have it, glue it back in, if not and you have a small piece of wood, replace it. If not, just make sure you get plenty of epoxy in it.

SteveT.

 

[econpatric]

Steve: I am wondering about the optional nylon canopy/hatch screws. Does a person need them for an electric setup, or is this a must either way? I didn't see anything in your article or the manuals I've looked through about it.

 

[wedoitall]

I removed the firewall using Golden West Debonder...

As to the broken piece...if you have it, glue it back in, if not and you have a small piece of wood, replace it. If not, just make sure you get plenty of epoxy in it.

SteveT.

SteveT

on my buck 50 edge i bought it from a guy already built. on the elevator control horn he didnt cut off the 1/8" or so (as recommended in the manual) before he glued it in the stab. i have to use the long arm on the servo to get close to 45 degrees of throw, and im using a dx8. i was thinking about trying to use a debonder to get the horn out, trim it and put in back in. i have some regular debonder in my shop. do you think that would work or should i get the one in your link? btw i have a spare set of control horns if i need them.

i think im getting alil blowback on that servo. i read that if your snap rolls are inconsistent and all over the place then blowback may be the issue.

sorry i know its not the 74 edge. didnt want to seem like i was jack'n the thread.