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74" Edge 540

econpatric

70cc twin V2
Use a separate BEC! Don't rely on the one in your ESC :)

Great advice!

Doing some reading again... (uh ohh!) I don't know if I am understanding the posts wrong or if I need to read more, but, does it make sense that some folks are using a separate BEC in addition to the separate battery pack? I know if you were running 3s on a receiver, one would have to regulate down to 7.4 or 6.6, but if your set up for 7.4 on the servos, is there any reason to have the BEC in there too?

I will be running HS-7954sh's all around--straight up--on a 2s lipo (again cause its what I have in my shop).
 

Anthony7820

70cc twin V2
Great advice!

Doing some reading again... (uh ohh!) I don't know if I am understanding the posts wrong or if I need to read more, but, does it make sense that some folks are using a separate BEC in addition to the separate battery pack? I know if you were running 3s on a receiver, one would have to regulate down to 7.4 or 6.6, but if your set up for 7.4 on the servos, is there any reason to have the BEC in there too?

I will be running HS-7954sh's all around--straight up--on a 2s lipo (again cause its what I have in my shop).

Nope! You can run 7.4v straight to the receiver, or through a switch of some sorts. I use a 7.4v (unregulated and without a BEC) straight to the receiver. Most receivers are rated up to 12v.
 
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djmoose

70cc twin V2
How about the Hacker A60-5s on 8s swinging a 20x10 or 21x10 Xoar? I think I may have made my decision! ;)

It's a shame that aero-model is out of stock of the 6XS. (and out of of stock of the Q80-8M...but that's a different story)

The extra weight of the 5S (vs 6XS) will help...I have the 6XS on 6S 5000s and I need to add some nose weight.

I'm not sure of the 5S on 8S, but I know that Joey really likes the Xoar 21x10 with 6S on the 6XS. I flew mine this year with a 20x10 xoar and it has the power...but left me wanting a little more. (I have a falcon 21x10 for this year)

I run 7985s on mine directly with a 1800 lifepower pack through a fromeco Badger switch.

My other recommendation to you would be to use a high quality switch that has more then one output into your Rx. Each servo connector is only rated for 3A (5A max) so if you run 4 digital servos through only one power lead...then you might be starving your servos for power.

Enjoy this plane!! Can't wait to see how much you enjoy it.
 

econpatric

70cc twin V2
Each servo connector is only rated for 3A (5A max) so if you run 4 digital servos through only one power lead...then you might be starving your servos for power.

Enjoy this plane!! Can't wait to see how much you enjoy it.

Hey djmoose! I have one of these (http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/6-inch-ec3-to-dual-jr-y-harness-SPMYHEC36#t1) for the power lead to the receiver. I assume that this would be ok? That switch you suggested is sweet! I am thinking about just connecting without any switch. What is the reasoning behind putting the badger in the middle?

Thanks for the encouragement! I wish there was a way to get all the folks who've helped me in my setups there for the maiden. I'd be dead without the support here.
 

djmoose

70cc twin V2
Hey djmoose! I have one of these (http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/6-inch-ec3-to-dual-jr-y-harness-SPMYHEC36#t1) for the power lead to the receiver. I assume that this would be ok? That switch you suggested is sweet! I am thinking about just connecting without any switch. What is the reasoning behind putting the badger in the middle?

Thanks for the encouragement! I wish there was a way to get all the folks who've helped me in my setups there for the maiden. I'd be dead without the support here.

That y-connector should be just fine. The only benifit to using the switch is that you don't have to pull part and re-connect your connectors all of the time. It's not a big deal, but connectors do wear out over time. The badger also has a charge jack to charge so you again don't have to disconnect anything. My 1800 Lifepower is under the cowl and hasn't come out since the day I installed it.

All that being said, it's more of a convienience thing...with some added longevity to your connectors, that's all. You'll be just fine with the Y-lead.
 

SteveT.

100cc
I have the Hacker A50-12L on 6s 5300mah with a 20x10 prop and the Castle 85HV. It has plenty of power to pull out of a hover.

I would go for the Hacker A60-6xs and the ICE 100 on 6s. That will be perfect, and produce more power than the A50-12L

But A60-5S on 8S is outstanding in this plane....

How about the Hacker A60-5s on 8s swinging a 20x10 or 21x10 Xoar? I think I may have made my decision! ;)

I like robj's concept of taking it easy on the gear, in addition, I think that sticking with 8s will be easier than having a separate set of batteries for my 74" and the 60" birds I fly, plus I can stick with my CC ICE 100.

This would allow me to prop up to the larger prop size that has been recommended as well as increase the weight a few ounces on the nose. Plus going 8s will help also (weight wise)!

I have been a Motrolfly fan in regards to my smaller planes, but I know that Hacker makes some awesome motors also, so I think after all of this discussion I will go the 8s Hacker route.

You'll need at least the 21X10 if running a Xoar, the 20X10 won't load the motor enough. I am turning a Xoar 20X10 PJN Carbon gas prop on mine, and it has outstanding power (at least for my style of flying.....

SteveT.
 
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econpatric

70cc twin V2
But A60-5S on 8S is outstanding in this plane....



You'll need at least the 21X10 if running a Xoar, the 20X10 won't load the motor enough. I am turning a Xoar 20X10 PJN Carbon gas prop on mine, and it has outstanding power (at least for my style of flying.....

SteveT.

I have to be honest... it was reading through a bunch of your posts, as well as discussion here that lead me to my decision! So the gas prop in a smaller size (20") loads the prop better? Would running wood (vs. C.F.) in the PJN option be too much?
 
Just got this plane for X-mas and really excited to get it flying. I’m still deciding if I want to go 6S or 8S. From what I have read; the 5320 seems like a great motor for this plane. Will this motor bolt directly to the firewall or will I have to re-drill? Which KV is best for 6S and 8S? Also, if going 6S I need to run a separate Rx battery, correct? Is this also true if running 8S? Thanks
 

gyro

GSN Contributor
Just got this plane for X-mas and really excited to get it flying. I’m still deciding if I want to go 6S or 8S. From what I have read; the 5320 seems like a great motor for this plane. Will this motor bolt directly to the firewall or will I have to re-drill? Which KV is best for 6S and 8S? Also, if going 6S I need to run a separate Rx battery, correct? Is this also true if running 8S? Thanks

Its been a while for me, and I tried a few different motors on mine to I can' say for sure, but i think the inner holes on the x mount (the fiberglass x mount has inner and outer holes) line up perfectly... but someone else that still has theirs will need to confirm.
For a strickly 8s setup, I like the 300kv, as it allows you to spin the 20x10 prop, which for me, was perfect.
You'll definitely want to either run a Castle BEC Pro for servo/rx power OR a 2s LiPo (if you're running high voltage servos) regardless of 6s or 8s. Neither one can power your rx directly.

-G
 
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