3D 75cc 106" HyperLITE Slick 540 by Fibertech N More

[Fibertech]

The wings got there LE and TE stock glue in place and shaved down. I like to mark the center point at each end and then stick a pin just below the mark. This allows me to hold the straight edge in correct position so I can draw the center line.
I used my 30 some year old razer plane to remove the jist of the wood and then do final shape with 80 grit then down to 150 and finish with 220.






I got the tail wheel mounted and rest of fuse shaped around it. I just used some 1/2" balsa scrap and one to each side.

 

[tylerzx9r]

Did you recess the tail wheel like that for a more scale appearance? I LIKE IT!

 

[Fibertech]

Did you recess the tail wheel like that for a more scale appearance? I LIKE IT!

Can't say what Kevin’s real intension was on design side but it does work out good. I plan on making a small cover also so you can’t see the fastening. I did this on the 42% also.

 

[Fibertech]

Last night was good night as far as making gains. I finished up the on carving and shaping the h/stabs and then moved onto the wings.
Some time to day I'll get the hinges in.

 

[Fibertech]

After using the plans as reference I marked and cut out the ailerons on the band saw. For the hinge material i use 1/2" wide stock and cut about 30deg down the center line. I also used the band saw for this process as I don’t have a good table saw at this time (yet). Then I did some lite sanding with a block and 80 grit.
I marked both ends for center plus same on the wings to locate the hinge stock.
Something I want to point out is with the long hinge stock. Just marking the ends for location is not going to for sure make the center portion of the stock a straight line. To check this I stick a straight pin at each end and one in the middle. Then use a good straight edge and touch of both ends of pins and see if the center pin also touches. If not I just push or pull the center and tape and pin in place. If you don't do this chance is you’re going to bind the hinge point center when installing the hinges. This is just another bind on the servos and any binding creates more stress and more stress equals more batteries use.
There are several reasons for the stock to not be straight. One depends on how long a rip fence was used if cutting on table saw or band saw. Also whenever cutting or I should say removing material in short will change shape ( push, pull, twist ext). This is true for most materials.

 

[Fibertech]

I also managed to get the canopy cut and fit to the hatch. This is really easy but most guys panic at doing this but shouldn't. The pics show the steps I take and the results.
The cutters I show were purchased from Farm and Fleet or some call it Blains. They work great for this and also put Terry onto these when he was in town.
Do yourself a favor and keep the plastic film on till done for protection when you drop it. Start by cutting of the ends that pic one shows. Then sit the canopy on the T/deck that should be fastened to the fuse at this point. Start by marking a line around the front with a pin. Don’t use a marker as the line will be to wide. I use a red pin. Then cut this portion and sit canopy back on deck. Don't mark the whole thing and cut it all at once. Reason I say this is the front sits in a pocket the depth of the canopy thickness and this will change the line on the back side. Hard to explain but trust me. Marked the back cut line and then again cut this out. Sit it back on deck and then finished the sides.
These steps really make the task easy. This whole process took me about 10 minutes last night to do.
Hope this helps the guys that panic about this.

 

[Bipenut]

Very nice job, and thanks for the tips on the hinge stock and canopy.

 

[SteveT.]

.....

 

[tylerzx9r]

Great example and Tips!

 

[pawnshopmike]