78'' Extra
- Thread starter hone
- Start date
dth7
3DRCF Regional Ambassador
Thanks, i like it too. Can't take credit. The guy I bought it from did that with a "fog" of black paint. I'm hoping I can tell the IMAC judges "oh, the pilot is in there but he's very sensitive to sun" and save a 1% deduction!!!
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ghoffman
70cc twin V2
If the servos are good for it, you will see a big difference between 6.6v LiFe and 8.4V Lipo. In this case, the 7955's are way better on the Lipo, and with the Lipo's you can charge a 2200 in about 5 minutes at 5c, whereas with a Life, they will puff badly at much more than 1c. The only reason for Life's is if your servo's cant take 8.4V.
cwojcik
70cc twin V2
The Hobbico LiFeSouce batteries don't like more than a 1C charge but Hyperion LiFe batteries are fine at a 4C charge. They will actually charge quicker than LiPo's because the CV portion of the LiFe charge is so much shorter than with LiPo's.
If the servo has enough power on 6.6V, you will see more consistent performance as well because the battery voltage doesn't really come down as the batteries discharge. Most people will not notice this, however.
However, most LiFe batteries are still heavier and more expensive than LiPo, and all of my planes are on LiPo's at this point because I like the extra power.
If the servo has enough power on 6.6V, you will see more consistent performance as well because the battery voltage doesn't really come down as the batteries discharge. Most people will not notice this, however.
However, most LiFe batteries are still heavier and more expensive than LiPo, and all of my planes are on LiPo's at this point because I like the extra power.
ryan_m
100cc
What broke on it? Did they give a possible cause as to why it broke? They are making you pay, so obviously they don't consider it a manufacturing defect...
Swap that eme35 back in there and stick a pipe on it! Wait you sold that motor didn't you...
how about trying the new valley view 40cc twin?
Swap that eme35 back in there and stick a pipe on it! Wait you sold that motor didn't you...
how about trying the new valley view 40cc twin?
gyro
GSN Contributor
I have his eme35, and I offered it back if he wants it. Offer stands.... And it's got a new carb and bowman ring too
dth7
3DRCF Regional Ambassador
Sorry to hear that. Too bad they didn't stand behind what they sell. Is there a way to go direct to OS? Also curious to know what happened?
Cody and I did the reed valve mod and the Bowman ring on the DLE 35. Still waiting on header. I think Cody is going to post the mods. We took pics as we did it. Mostly sanding smooth the. Cast and plastic parts to eliminate possible air leaks. Most if the surfaces were pretty rough. Glad we did it.
Good luck with whatever you end up doing. What a drag in the middle of the season.
dth7
3DRCF Regional Ambassador
DLE 35 RA engine Mods- Reed Valve and Bowman Ring
Here are the photos and a short explanation of the Reed valve mod and the Bowman ring installation for the DLE 35RA. I purchased a Bowman ring from Frank Bowman. He includes instructions for the reed valve mod as well (recommended for all China engines). I also purchased a gasket set just in case. We only had to use one.
The other difference you will see is the single shaft prop adapter from Valley View. It involves removing and cutting the existing prop shaft and installing the steel single post. Instructions available via .pdf on the site, very straight forward. Will make prop changes a breeze.
Attach 320 grit wet dry (400 to finish) to a piece of glass or mirror. The flatter the better.
> Remove the carb trying not to tear gasket (same for all removal steps).
> Mark each side of the reed valve (we used a sharpie that later rinsed off with a gas wash). Remove and set aside.
> Begin lightly sanding the Reed bracket smooth. The goal is to have as smooth a surface as possible for the reed to rest on providing the greatest suction for fuel draw (this is where the starting problems are caused). You will notice that the plastic/ composite and cast surfaces are quite rough.
> Also sand and polish the carb to eliminate any possible air leaks.
>The Bowman Ring install is straight forward and Frank provides a very good instruction sheet.
We finished by applying Copper gasket silicone to the carb and reed valve seals.
It may be over kill but here's the thinking. I've seen starting issues with the DLEs and when warm they do better. When cold the reeds are laying against rough unpolished surfaces. When warm they are able so seat much better. Air leaks kill consistent performance and reliability so why not try to eliminate it with a little time and very little money.
I'll be reporting how it all works as we move to tune up and break in.
We will begin with the stock muffler (since I'm waiting on a header anyway!) to allow for a good base line comparison. It will also give the engine a little easier break in. Can't wait to hang the engine and fly the 78!:bouncy:
Gary- I know this is an "Engines" article but Hone and I wanted to do a "one stop" thread for the 78 and the different power combos for comparison. Since he has gone through a couple and I'm trying this we thought it would be nice to include everything. Hope that's OK. Thanks.
Here are the photos and a short explanation of the Reed valve mod and the Bowman ring installation for the DLE 35RA. I purchased a Bowman ring from Frank Bowman. He includes instructions for the reed valve mod as well (recommended for all China engines). I also purchased a gasket set just in case. We only had to use one.
The other difference you will see is the single shaft prop adapter from Valley View. It involves removing and cutting the existing prop shaft and installing the steel single post. Instructions available via .pdf on the site, very straight forward. Will make prop changes a breeze.
Attach 320 grit wet dry (400 to finish) to a piece of glass or mirror. The flatter the better.
> Remove the carb trying not to tear gasket (same for all removal steps).
> Mark each side of the reed valve (we used a sharpie that later rinsed off with a gas wash). Remove and set aside.
> Begin lightly sanding the Reed bracket smooth. The goal is to have as smooth a surface as possible for the reed to rest on providing the greatest suction for fuel draw (this is where the starting problems are caused). You will notice that the plastic/ composite and cast surfaces are quite rough.
> Also sand and polish the carb to eliminate any possible air leaks.
>The Bowman Ring install is straight forward and Frank provides a very good instruction sheet.
We finished by applying Copper gasket silicone to the carb and reed valve seals.
It may be over kill but here's the thinking. I've seen starting issues with the DLEs and when warm they do better. When cold the reeds are laying against rough unpolished surfaces. When warm they are able so seat much better. Air leaks kill consistent performance and reliability so why not try to eliminate it with a little time and very little money.
I'll be reporting how it all works as we move to tune up and break in.
We will begin with the stock muffler (since I'm waiting on a header anyway!) to allow for a good base line comparison. It will also give the engine a little easier break in. Can't wait to hang the engine and fly the 78!:bouncy:
Gary- I know this is an "Engines" article but Hone and I wanted to do a "one stop" thread for the 78 and the different power combos for comparison. Since he has gone through a couple and I'm trying this we thought it would be nice to include everything. Hope that's OK. Thanks.
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gyro
GSN Contributor
Darren, perfectly fine as it is definitely pertinent to this discussion thread.
Would you be willing to write a blog or make a similar post in the engines section that I could turn into an article? I think this pictorial will really help others with this process.
-G