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Sport Beautifying the Beast

HINGED CANOPY

Pistolera (Earle) gets ALL the blame here! I got my inspiration from his Krill 330SC build.
I would not recommend this modification if you were to leave the airplane with it's original covering on. And be prepared to swear al lot!!!

I did this as I want to make the total assembly of this airplane easier at the field. This feature eliminates two more bolts to attach. The other modifications to the wing assembly will hopefully make the job of putting together this beast a bit easier.

I used miniature piano hinges from Lee Valley for the right side of the canopy. These were cut into the side of the fuselage so that they would be flush once mounted. With the covering still on, this task would be very difficult unless you are a skilled builder. I used #2 by 3/8" stainless pan head screws to attach the hinges as they look like the correct size in scale to the bolts used on the real plane. Also by using these screws, I can now COMPLETELY remove the canopy if necessary.

The canopy latches are from Hobby King and the mating attachment receptacle is from a part of a rudder control arm (not sure what supplier).

The handle is from a paper clip that I cut off and used the end after straightening it out. The tiny brass plate was from the package fro the flying wires. It was a perfect fit and gives the attachment a more realistic look along with adding some strength. I used J B Weld to hold the wire into the bass wood on the fuselage. To make sure that the glue would adhere well I notch the wire with small grooves from my Dremel cut off wheel.

The latch pins stick out just enough so that I can disengage them but not enough to get caught on my clothing. I "set up" the forward latch pin to be in place with a slight amount of pressure on the pin receptacle so that there is absolutely NO movement once locked in place. This was the most difficult part of the job, getting the fit just perfect.

EARLE now I need your help! Can you post some pictures of the mechanism that you used to hold the canopy upright.

Once the "Locking Upright" fixture is in place, I'll put in a floor and the Instrument Panel. Once I paint the canopy and fuselage the hinges will almost disappear.

PARTS USED.JPG HINGES.JPG HANDLE.JPG LOCKING PIN.JPG CANOPY OPEN.JPG
 

Pistolera

HEY!..GET OUTTA MY TREE!
Nice....the metal turnbuckles definitely look more scale!

Love the hinged canopy and latches!!!!! On my Krill I didn't use a "lock-open" mechanism....just a small piece of braided stainless wire (pull-pull stuff) to hold the canopy in an over-center position when it's open. Realize that I must use some caution if it's windy as it can be blown shut and possibly damage paint (once I get that done!). The cable is anchored under the cross-brace at the turtle deck and collapses down into the fuse when closed.

At one point I considered a sliding strut type mechanism that could be locked open, but decided not to add any more weight than necessary. And YES....there is a bit os swearing getting hinges and latches to line up and function like you wish :confused:
DSC00423.JPG
 
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Pistolera

HEY!..GET OUTTA MY TREE!
BTW - Brian....here's the full sized Beast instrument panel, which I used to make mine. First pic is the actual Beast....2nd one I blacked out anything outside the panel and enhanced the graphics on the center display and GPS. Feel free to use if you wish.
Inst panel 3.jpg

Inst panel - enhanced black bkgrd.jpg
 
Thanks for all your help. You sure are a craftsman builder!

I can't match you BUT I'm having fun trying. Makes the winter go faster. We had snow flurries yesterday.
 

Pistolera

HEY!..GET OUTTA MY TREE!
Thanks for all your help. You sure are a craftsman builder!

I can't match you BUT I'm having fun trying. Makes the winter go faster. We had snow flurries yesterday.
Thanks Brian....although sometimes I think I'd trade "craftsman" for "faster" :on_the_go:
 
INSTRUMENT PANEL & FLOORING

To build the floor I used 1/16" light balsa. With the way the canopy is tapered the flooring must be assembled in several pieces, otherwise you can not get it in place. Thankfully the canopy had a balsa ledge already pre installed, so I had a strong ledge to glue to.

I first painted the balsa with a light coat of grey primer and then a quick coat of stone fleck paint.

There are three basic shapes of instrument panels for the Pitts S12 that I can find. But the position and shape of the instruments is widely varied. I went with some left over miniature instruments and installed them for an overall aesthetic look. By no way are they "Correct". The switches at the bottom are tiny Button Head screws with nail polish placed on the top.

Next job is to sand the outside down and paint it with my new colours. I'm looking at getting a 1/3 scale pilot, BUT not one with a helmet, as not one of the pictures of the real plane flying has any pilot wearing a racing helmet.

ORIGINAL.JPG FLOOR PIECES.JPG PIANTED FLOORING.JPG Ist PIECE IN PLACE.JPG INSTRUMENT PANEL.JPG PANEL IN PLACE.JPG FINISHED RESULT.JPG
 
SOLARTEX WEIGHT PENALTY

I was asked what extra weight would I gain by using Solartex and paint vs. Ultracote.

I kept track of some of the small parts of the airplane and have this data to share with you.

RIGHT ELEVATOR

As received with Ultracote = 61 grams
After removing the Ultracote = 44 grams
After "strengthening corners" = 46 grams
With Solartex Covering = 58 grams

Painted ?????? I want to complete all of the covering on this plane and any extra work before I start the painting phase.

So I am sure it will end up being heavier, but if I'm careful I should not have too much extra weigh. As of know I have 3 grams to play with!!
 
PAINTED CANOPY

Last night I was so pissed off at the Blue Jays baseball team, that I prepared the canopy for paint. I was anxious to see if the colour I had picked would come quite close to the Yellow Solartex fabric colour.

The colour looks like it matches very well. The paint also went on exception ally smooth with now signs of pebbling and it does not seem to want to run.

I am using a lacquer Farm & Equipment spray paint that needs no primer. The colour is "John Deere Yellow". It's available at CTC.

Unfortunately I now have to wait 7 days before I can apply the trim colours, otherwise there is a good chance that the paint will "check".

I just have to finish covering the bottom wings and aerilons and then I can start painting the fuselage.

BEFORE PAINTING.JPG CANOPY IN YELLOW.JPG AFTER PAINTING.JPG AFTER PAINTING.JPG YELLOW PAINT.JPG
 

HRRC Flyer

GSN Sponsor Tier 1
Hey @Krazy Kanuk ,

I love what you're doing with your Beast. Your dash look great, I don't care if it's "correct" or not. . . :yesss: You know, if you put John Deere yellow paint on your Beast, you're going to have to put some complimentary John Deere green on it as well . . . :laughing:
 
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