IMAC Dalton 300 ml build thread.

[orthobird]

i have continued with the hatch/canopy, following the sequence on the manual.  the important points here is to leave a 1/32" gap between the canopy support in the back and also between the former of the hatch and fuselage in the front of it. then, make sure you saved your spruce 1/4" sticks, as the longeron from the canopy hatch to the back former, needs to be doubled up.  this will make the surface area for the canopy to be glued to at 1/2".

 

 

 

 

 

 

[orthobird]

i pinned the hatch mounts to the spruce longerons.

 

 

 

 

[orthobird]

i added the 1/2" thick balsa to the back of F2T.  this will serve to increase surface area on to where the canopy will be glued on to.

 

 

[orthobird]

it is now starting to look like a real model airplane!!!

 

[orthobird]

got some more work done!! sanded down the 1/2" balsa, and placed the tanks to see if they clear , and looks like they do.  placed the canopy on the hatch, trial fit, still need to cut more plastic off, but i will wait til later for that.  one thing for sure, that canopy plastic feels really good.  Thick and strong poly!!! i like it!!

 

 

 

[orthobird]

the split cowl hardware.  At first, i had no idea what these were for, then i did some research.  these are not in the manual, but the concept is awesome.  here it is.

 

this set up is for a screw-less split cowl.  meaning, the top half will have these tabs that secure the cowl to the bottom half, when moved from front to back.  then, inside the fuse, there will be one screw each side, that will lock it in.  from the outside, there will be no visible screws holding the cowl together.

 

 

 

[IMAC FANATIC]

Wow, thats a really really cool cowl system, I've never noticed that style of tabs and single screw attachment, is it new or have I been blind, LOL.  

 

[Bunky.F.Knuckle]

sparkx38 said
My expierence is that monokote is easier to apply and wrinkles less. Ultracote seems to be a little tougher and if you get a wrinkle you can't you can poke a little hole with a stick pin and get it out with a heat gun which doesn't seem to work with monokote. Pick your poison! Are you ready to cover?

HUH??  I think you have it the other way around.

 

MonoKote takes a little bit of a technique to get it to lay down right.  UltraCote, is pretty much lay it and stick it.  MonoKote does take a bit more heat to adhere, UltraCote much less.  Approx 100F.  Plus with MonoKote, you get a bubble in the covering, heat it up with the iron and take a T pin and poke it, and use the iron in circles, sealing the bubbled piece down.

 

I would much rather use MonoKote over UltraCote.  Simply because I like the sheen of the MonoKote. 

 

Different strokes for different folks!

 

[orthobird]

IMAC FANATIC said
Wow, thats a really really cool cowl system, I've never noticed that style of tabs and single screw attachment, is it new or have I been blind, LOL.  

I am with you!! i never knew about this either.  should be interesting to see how it works out.

 

[orthobird]

 

 

Did some measurements, checked them, double checked them, triple checked them, then i brought out my old worthy square.  i decided, that according to the plans, the top surface of the fin is perpendicular to the hinge line, so i had to redo my lines.  but, it worked out for the best.  also, the top surface of the tail of the fuselage, being parallel to the aircraft longitudinal line, i then redid that line for the cut as well.  i decided to go with the no counter balance on the rudder.  I did similar lines on the stabs as well.