• If you are new to GiantScaleNews.com, please register, introduce yourself, and make yourself at home.

    We're 1st in Giant Scale RC because we've got the best membership on the internet! Take a look around and don't forget to register to get all of the benefits of GSN membership!

    Welcome!

IMAC Double Build, Carden Pro 124" Extra 300 40%

Yeah next time you can pay too! :)

Cappy, I do not know you personally, but you and I kid around like we are brothers! All good with me!

Ok, both rudders are just about done. I only need to sheet the bottom.

What is next?

cut out the ailerons and elevators!!

IMG_2505.JPG
 

Rusty 73

100cc
I'm guess that you use those 322 robart hinges in the airleon as well . This is good at preventing any binding with the airleons .
I like your building methods Cam, just order some for the 35% extra thanks .....
 

Rusty 73

100cc
Using this method of wire for the hinges i now will be able to remove the rudder so the Fuseage will fit into the eight foot truck box .:attaboy:
 
I'm guess that you use those 322 robart hinges in the airleon as well . This is good at preventing any binding with the airleons .
I like your building methods Cam, just order some for the 35% extra thanks .....

Hi, I have never used them on ailerons, only on the rudder and elevators. Reason being that, the K&S piano wire, do not come long enough to do so in the ailerons. But, we will see ;)
 

Rusty 73

100cc
I'm sure we can find some longer wire from some where , it has to cut to size for K&S wire . Now i can modify my new Extra to fit into the eight foot box of my truck , i have also ordered a package (50) hinges
 
yes, that would only make you 25 hinges.

OK, started to plan out cutting out the ailerons. I will deviate from plans, and do something different to me, but has been done in past many times, by many builders. and to this, there are two schools of thought. Not to say anyone is right or wrong, it will be, purely a matter of preference. SO please, I hope no one gets offended by what I am about to do.

Ok, here it is, a forum friend has provided me with the measurements, and here goes something.
I would also like to say, that by using a shorter aileron, from, root to tip, then the chord has to be increased, otherwise, the required deflection to get same result will be too much. Another way to explain this, from my understanding, and grant it, I am not an engineer, much less, have any formal education in aeronautics; the small the aileron, the smaller the surface area that is deflected, and if the surface area is increased, bye increasing the chord, and still preventing the prop blast from hitting the aileron, as well as, by bringing the aileron root out, the air that hits that elevators and rudders, is not as disrupted by aileron deflection, therefore, there should be an improvement in the airflow over the rudder and elevator, without much compromise in the function of the aileron for snaps. IF the chord is not increased, then we can have a problem.

I made some measurements, and the standard stock ailerons have a surface area of 220 square inches. With these "shorties", the surface area is in the 190 range. this is, of course, with a wider chord as compared to the stock ailerons.

Have i confused you??

well, let's see if pictures can demonstrate this.

this first photograph demonstrates the new short aileron in black. in the bottom of the picture, the red depicts where the stock aileron root would have been. dicciuclt to see, but the aileron tip now is much wider than in the stock condition, by , i believe, 1.5". I have those measurements all written down, but not right in front of me right now as I type this.
IMG_2506.JPG





after I calculated where the aileron will be, I wanted to make a template....

IMG_2506.JPG


cut out the template:


IMG_2508.JPG

now, I can mark the top and bottom of all the wings.


I also have placed two marks on the template, for the location of the servo boxes.
IMG_2509.JPG
IMG_2510.JPG



this is to demonstrate the "surgical" plan!! LOL!
IMG_2511.JPG


this is how I cut out the foam for the servo...
IMG_2512.JPG
IMG_2513.JPG



I then make a hole in the root of the wing, and using a copper pipe, I burn the foam from the root to the outer servo bay.
IMG_2514.JPG
IMG_2515.JPG



once I make the tunnel, i then glue in the servo boxes.

IMG_2516.JPG
IMG_2517.JPG




once the glue cures, I will sand the servo box flush with the balsa sheeting.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2507.JPG
    IMG_2507.JPG
    229.1 KB · Views: 265

Rusty 73

100cc
One of the pilot in my club has done the same thing to his Carden his explanation as to the placement was the same . Get the aileron out of the dirty prop wash and provide a more cleaner air for the Ailerons .
 

TonyHallo

150cc
I believe that the inboard section is less effective generating rotational force since it is closer to the center of rotation therefore more deflection is needed for a strip aileron which generates additional drag.
 

Pistolera

HEY!..GET OUTTA MY TREE!
Last winter I split the stock ailerons on my 42% Raven. I was surprised that I didn't really notice any significant difference in IMAC sequence (Advanced ) flying using just the outboard sections!

The only time I activate the inboards are for 3D fooling around. Need them for hovering and such.

Oh....and they make great short field landings when used as flaps.
 
Top