I have done about 6 pairs of wings with Polu=urethane glue, and I have done both the Elmers and the Gorilla. The Elmers Ultimate flows much easier, has a lower viscosity, as compared to the Gorilla.
I have done all these wings with the old fashioned, 400 pounds or so of weight.
Just recently, I have been converted to the bagging technique, and I was so impressed.
On this Dalton I am building now, I used the bagging technique for the stabs, and I am truely impressed with the bond. I did, however, use the Poly U glue.
I do have the red dye and plenty of Epoxy Resin from ACP. Takes a good while for that to cure, and the pool urethane glue cures so quickly, relatively speaking.
I cannot yet bag my Dalton wings, until I receive the remaining parts to the kit.
But I will plan to bag all 3 sets of wings with the Epoxy resin and the red dye, as illustrated by Terry's Customs Youtube Videos.
Earlier today, I was able to cut the longerons for the Carden #2, and then I assured that my table was flat. Just now, I laid out the plans, and covered them with this plastic film.
This is the step I must do next, from the manual:
4. Build the Truss side over the Plans. (3/8” sq. and 3/8” x 1/2” Vertical Braces are pre-cut) Install the Fuse Socket Supports. We line up the socket hole over the Plans and mark the Truss Sides for an accurate installation. Using the Socket Support as a guide, mark the Socket hole on the 1/8” Balsa Fuse Side. Cut the Socket hole in the 1/8” Balsa using a Circle Cutter or Dremel. Properly position and glue the 1/8” Balsa Fuse Side to the Truss. Trial fit the Motor Box and Fuse Sides upside down over the Top View Plan. Line up the Motor Box so F-2 matches the Top View Plan. Make sure to position the Motor Box so the Top Plate hangs over the front of your building board so the Box can sit level with the Fuse Sides. Sand the taper on the front and back edge of the Fuse Side to match the Plans. Complete steps 5, 6, & 7 in this position.
what glue should I use for this step? Epoxy or Titebond II or III?