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IMAC Double Build, Carden Pro 124" Extra 300 40%

these are my two favorite warbirds!

one is old, the other one is much older....

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I am doing something to make it easier to remove the stabs and not lose the servo extension inside the fuselage.

I first installed these plywood blocks in the opening by the tail of the airplane. this hole is covered by the root of the stabs.
IMG_2809.JPG



I will then make a lid, that screws on to the plywood blocks, with one screw, on each side. once the airplane is covered, then I can install the lid, which has a rectangular hole cut out, to screw on this MPX socket. SO, i just plug in the MPX into the fuselage, and do not have to worry about losing the extension in the fuselage.

IMG_2810.JPG

Still need to make the lid, just so you all can see the position of the plug, and my left thumb, after I burned it 2 weeks ago with the iron, as I was covering the stabs. (OUCH)
 

Rusty 73

100cc
Ouch to your thumb you have been applying vitiam E to help the scare tissue heal .
Those wing plugs are a good idea like the soldiering .
Finally was able to make my stinger extensions for the KS 1090 tuned pipes. These are thin walled aluminum. got them McMaster Carr. the stinger is 18 mm OD. I was able to find something that was almost 18 MM ID.

View attachment 92195 View attachment 92196
Finally was able to make my stinger extensions for the KS 1090 tuned pipes. These are thin walled aluminum. got them McMaster Carr. the stinger is 18 mm OD. I was able to find something that was almost 18 MM ID.

View attachment 92195 View attachment 92196
Those clamps will do the trick , maybe so high temp loctite between the wall will help the clamps keeping it tight .
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Ouch to your thumb you have been applying vitiam E to help the scare tissue heal .
Those wing plugs are a good idea like the soldiering .


Those clamps will do the trick , maybe so high temp loctite between the wall will help the clamps keeping it tight .
I am doing something to make it easier to remove the stabs and not lose the servo extension inside the fuselage.

I first installed these plywood blocks in the opening by the tail of the airplane. this hole is covered by the root of the stabs.
View attachment 92198


I will then make a lid, that screws on to the plywood blocks, with one screw, on each side. once the airplane is covered, then I can install the lid, which has a rectangular hole cut out, to screw on this MPX socket. SO, i just plug in the MPX into the fuselage, and do not have to worry about losing the extension in the fuselage.

View attachment 92197
Still need to make the lid, just so you all can see the position of the plug, and my left thumb, after I burned it 2 weeks ago with the iron, as I was covering the stabs. (OUCH)

That must have been painful. Done it my self once the worst one when I once grabbed a soldering iron that was falling of the workbench. Will not do that again.
 

thurmma

150cc
What is the advantage of using those carbon plates?
I just installed my wing servos with the cf plates on the top of them and one definite benefit is the rubber grommet does not get all twisted out of shape when tightening the screws down. It also appears that the clamping force is more equally distributed. I will definitely be using these on every servo I install from here on out :) Thanks for the good idea @orthobird!
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Just finished covering the 2nd set of stabs. I am using the Tom Wheeler trick to adhere the Insignia Blue to the orange, using Ammonia into a Windex Bottle.

Once this dries, then I can cut off the excess and then do the stripes on the top.

View attachment 92067
Sorry for the intrusion. But covering a plane right now and would really like some help. What is the Tom Wheeler trick and is this trick for Ultacote. Thanks.
 

BalsaDust

Moderator
Sorry for the intrusion. But covering a plane right now and would really like some help. What is the Tom Wheeler trick and is this trick for Ultacote. Thanks.

Not sure the method for ultracote but for monocote you can spray it down with windex (that has ammonia in it) and place your top piece of covering over it. Get it in the right place and squeegee it out. Let it dry overnight then you can go over it lightly with the iron to seal it all down. The ammonia activates the adhesive in monocote.
 
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