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Extreme Flight 76/83" MXS

3dmike

640cc Uber Pimp
Great advice Mike. I especially like the part about checking the plugs. A fouled plug will make the motor run crappy for sure and the high oil content during break in usually makes them black.

Tom Josh Fassman is an excellent resource. I have a lot if respect for his engine knowledge. I wouldn't hesitate to reach out to him. I think you have his number...

In this instance I thought this motor was already broken in. Is that right?


I think the motor is broken in but I wanted to lay out my opinion on the matter in full. :)
 

AKfreak

150cc
The motor is broke in, I have flown it before in a YAK 54. When I ask questions here many times it is to confirm my thinking, or to get a different perspective.

Mike to get the position the needles correctly, you use a Tach correct? Can you discuss your routine to tune a motor/ set your high and low end needles?

Nate, josh is a good dude for sure.
 

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
Set the high speed for max rpms. Set the low speed for good throttle response. Start rich on the lsn needle. It will have slow sluggish throttle response. Lean it till the response is good. Check the tune on the HSN again with your tach and adjust as needed. If your idle and throttle response are good I would fly it and check temps.
 

3dmike

640cc Uber Pimp
I ALWAYS follow the manufacturer needle recommendations and for the DA50 this is what they recommend and if DA says this is the way then do what they say.... DA is DA and they know how it's done! :)

http://www.desertaircraft.com/manuals/DA50-Manual.pdf

Needle Adjustments
• The needle farthest from the motor is the “High End” needle. The needle closest to motor is the
“Low End” needle. Turning the needles in/clockwise “leans” the fuel mixture. Turning the needles
out/counter-clockwise “richens” the fuel mixture.

• Settings will vary with altitude, temperature, humidity, fuel, carb variances, etc. A "general" starting
point for the DA50 is: 1 5/8’s open on the Low needle, 1 7/8’s open on the High needle.

• Adjusting either needle can have a slight effect on the other. Example: Leaning the low needle can
"slightly" lean the high rpm range.

• Adjust the High End needle to peak rpm. A tachometer can help, but remember that the RPM
normally drops a little bit after every start due to residual heat build up. Don’t lean the mixture any
more than necessary. If the rpm steadily drops at full throttle or fades on long vertical maneuvers,
the motor is too lean and is overheating.

• Adjust the Low End needle until you achieve a smooth idle and a reliable transition to high throttle.
Generally if the motor “stutters” or “coughs” in the mid range or when the throttle is advanced, the
low end needle is too rich and possibly even the high end needle. If the motor dies quickly, the low
end is probably lean.

• Don't set the needles overly rich to protect the engine. Operating the motor overly rich not only
reduces power, it creates other problems such as poor transition, pre-mature carbon build up, fouled
plugs, excessive exhaust residue, sticking rings, airframe vibration, and overall rough running.
 

3dNater

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
Break a leg Tom. At least the weather is a little better today. I'm excited to hear a report!
 

AKfreak

150cc
Well I Pussed out. The wind really picked up and its was gusting hard off and on with multiple direction changes in a few min span. I started and was going to fly it three times, but shut it down as it picked up all of a sudden. I few my Extra 3 times, and it was darting all around, and it was hauling butt in downwind, not really fun but a challenge on a dialed in plane.

I wanted to be able to test the MXS to see whats what. Fighting the heavy gusty, plus constantly changing cross winds, I didn't feel like I would be able to test and get it dialed in. So with a heavy heart, I postponed the maiden.

Sorry I dont have better news, I did however get the motor running great on the ground. It is strong as heck.
 
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