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Glassing and Painting techniques

Jetpainter

640cc Uber Pimp
I painted some parts for a friend today. A set of carbon fiber gear legs, a Tru-Turn spinner, some exhaust extensions and the tips of a Falcon three blade.

For the aluminum parts I used some SEM brand self etching black primer. On the landing gear legs I used Nason 421-19 2K urethane primer because they were loaded with pinholes. The paint is DuPont, now Axalta Chromabase with Nason 496 clear with 483-79 activator with a touch of DuPont 19301 blender to thin it a tad.

I sprayed it with my trusty Sata NR2000 that I've been using almost daily since 2001.

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Jetpainter

640cc Uber Pimp
Man that spinner looks like a million bucks. Boy that spinner has an incredible shine. I may just have to hire you.
Funny thing is I wasn't happy with the spinner after it was dry and I could pick it up and look at it. There was a dry spot at the base of the cone and one on the backplate. So this morning I sanded it with 1500 and re-cleared it.
 

Jetpainter

640cc Uber Pimp
As I said in my previous post I wasn't happy with the spinner I painted Saturday, so I re-cleared it this morning. What happened was I broke my cardinal rule for painting something like this and that was I didn't have a good enough setup.

Setting up your parts for painting can be as important as anything you do in the process. When I setup the parts the other day I made it so I could pickup each gear leg, the prop and the exhaust extensions, but not the spinner parts. I thought I could get to all of the spinner just having it sitting on the table. I was wrong. I thought I was getting everything, but when it was dry and I picked it up I found dry spots that I just couldn't see on the table. I might have been able to polish them out, but I decided to re-clear.

For the setup this time after sanding with 1500 I mounted the backplate to a dowel rod, and put the spinner bolt in the cone backwards and wrapped a little tape around the shaft so it wouldn't fall out. Then I just stuck the cone on the backplate and let the machined lip hold it together. That way I could pick it up by the dowel and turn it while I painted. This time I could see everything perfectly and get the clear on nice and even.

Between coats I put the dowel rod through a hole in the table and had a roll of tape there to keep it up off the surface. After the second coat I grabbed the bolt sticking out of the cone and pulled the cone off and set it down separately, so the cone wouldn't be stuck to the backplate when the clear dried.

I'm very happy with the results this time. After sanding the Saturdays clear with 1500 today's coat went down like glass.;)

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