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Scale Pitts S1-T, S1-S, and a Challenger.

acerc

640cc Uber Pimp
A little refresher, last December after flying the Challenger a bit I decided I hated the plastic covering and stripped it for a new set of Stits. I believe, actually I know, the last pic was of the start of covering as seen below. Today I am cleaning the shop and getting reacquainted with the airframe. I will most likely start covering again in a few days, maybe tomorrow if the wife goes to town.
 

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acerc

640cc Uber Pimp
Ok fella's, here is how I do it up to ready for the spray gun. Pic #1 is the fabric trimmed for the aileron bay. #2 is the Poly brush added to prevent fraying. #3 wing perimeter treated with Stix-it, can't really see it in the pic. #4 outer perimeter surface ironed down, hinge slots marked. #5 hinge slots cut, the fabric pulled through, ironed on and trimmed. #6 bottom of wing done. #7 PB perimeter for fraying. #8 Stix-ix applied and dry. Note: the weights are only use to keep large wrinkles out not really needed as this fabric can shrink a lot, just something I like to do. #9 trimming the aileron bay top side, the stick was cut for the depth down to the top of the hinge. #10 fabric ironed on. #11 second coat of PB on perimeter and ironed utilizing parchment paper. This is a personal choice, I really like the perimeter to be exceptionally secured as all of these products are heat activated and can pull loose with enough heat. #12 ironed just snug enough to not have any wrinkles or loose spots. When ready for the spray gun part, after the first coat of PB, it will get tightened up. I do it this way so the fabric really gets glued to every piece of wood it touches, remember heat sensitive. And don't forget to adhere any needed opening such as servo bays and strut mounts. #13 These are the tools I use, two full size irons one for tacking and one for shrinking, a trim iron for tacking in corners and tight areas, the infra gun to set/check the irons, an exacto and a surgical knife, two high quality scissors in large and small, the putty knife for tucking the fabric. And the other miscellaneous stuff, straight edges, PP, weights. Adhesive used, Sig Stix-it and Stits Poly Brush, MEK is used for thinning and cleaning.
 

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acerc

640cc Uber Pimp
The application of fabric utilizes the same steps and techniques to lay out, cut/trim, and iron/shrink, the only real difference is adding the adhesives, and not having to get it anywhere near tight during the initial application. And for the effort one is rewarded with a lifetime covering that will not wrinkle or peel layers and downright look's so much better. I have planes out there ten years old that are as good as the day I finished them.
Heck, one I did five years ago is on FG for sale being proclaimed to have been done by a professional. If I can do it anyone can.
 

WMcNabb

150cc
Ok fella's, here is how I do it up to ready for the spray gun. Pic #1 is the fabric trimmed for the aileron bay. #2 is the Poly brush added to prevent fraying. #3 wing perimeter treated with Stix-it, can't really see it in the pic. #4 outer perimeter surface ironed down, hinge slots marked. #5 hinge slots cut, the fabric pulled through, ironed on and trimmed. #6 bottom of wing done. #7 PB perimeter for fraying. #8 Stix-ix applied and dry. Note: the weights are only use to keep large wrinkles out not really needed as this fabric can shrink a lot, just something I like to do. #9 trimming the aileron bay top side, the stick was cut for the depth down to the top of the hinge. #10 fabric ironed on. #11 second coat of PB on perimeter and ironed utilizing parchment paper. This is a personal choice, I really like the perimeter to be exceptionally secured as all of these products are heat activated and can pull loose with enough heat. #12 ironed just snug enough to not have any wrinkles or loose spots. When ready for the spray gun part, after the first coat of PB, it will get tightened up. I do it this way so the fabric really gets glued to every piece of wood it touches, remember heat sensitive. And don't forget to adhere any needed opening such as servo bays and strut mounts. #13 These are the tools I use, two full size irons one for tacking and one for shrinking, a trim iron for tacking in corners and tight areas, the infra gun to set/check the irons, an exacto and a surgical knife, two high quality scissors in large and small, the putty knife for tucking the fabric. And the other miscellaneous stuff, straight edges, PP, weights. Adhesive used, Sig Stix-it and Stits Poly Brush, MEK is used for thinning and cleaning.

Thanks for the tutorial and tips Robert!
Curious that your Poly-Brush appears clear, while mine is tinted red.
Have you found pros or cons with either, or simply personal preference?
Same question for Poly-Tak versus Sig Stix-it.
 
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Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Nice work, this plane was plastic coated first then it was removed and now Stits covered and painted.it would interesting to know the weight difference between the two coatings.
 

acerc

640cc Uber Pimp
Thanks for the tutorial and tips Robert!
Curious that your Poly-Brush appears clear, while mine is tinted red.
Have you found pros or cons with either, or simply personal preference?
Same question for Poly-Tak versus Sig Stix-it.
My Poly-Brush is red also it is just that I am using so little of it for this step. But if you really look at pic #12 you can see the red on the perimeter, you have to enlarge it.
I tried the Poly-Tak, a total pain in the rear as one has to hold the fabric in it until it cures, a lot harder and takes a lot longer.
The aforementioned wing only took thirty minutes to cover in it's entirety, not counting aileron, and is much easier and quicker if doing new with no hinges in the way.
And the aileron was done in the same manner.
 

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acerc

640cc Uber Pimp
Nice work, this plane was plastic coated first then it was removed and now Stits covered and painted.it would interesting to know the weight difference between the two coatings.
Without doing scale details such as stitching and tapes it is not to much more weight, but for a 3D ARF plane it would be to much.
 
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