Scale Pitts S1-T, S1-S, and a Challenger.

[john_M]

I had thought about doing something like that Ace... out here we have the "Tuff Sheds"... they make some incredible looking per-fabbed sheds with double pane windows and well insulated... great selection of sizes and decor... they even make pre-fabbed garages... I was quite impressed with the quality / prices, and they come and assembly it on site, foundation and all.


John M,

 

[acerc]

@john_M, I took a shorter version for personal reasons and will electrify, install insulation, then drywall it myself. The wife, seeing that I am seriously tired of building, actually started the shed direction. She went looking for someone to build me a garage and found that the shed's were much nicer than they use to be and very economical, not much more than me building it. I also have it being cover with the same colors as the house siding (green) and the roof (brown) so it will look like it belongs here.

 

[john_M]

This is an example of what I was thinking of; 10 x 16, or 10 x 18 interior... would be just the right size for a build / shop for my backyard without taking away too much space.

 

[acerc]

@john_M, that is well beyond what I am going with. First pic is the style, only with the green siding and brown metal roof, the front is the same with no windows elsewhere, 14x24. The second is the interior but of a 12x24. After completing the inside and laying out my next build I will put a deck on the front with a metal roof, may even go so far as to screen it in. There will also be a lean-to on the back for the tractor and accessories plus the other powered yard tools, got to tear the ole pole barn down before that is completed though. Should prove to be real nice once done.

 

[john_M]

Ok, well they're very similar... that one example I showed above, they want about $5k installed & painted, but that's with the fancy sky lights, roof turbines, and the big double doors... not a bad price if you don't have the time or the experience; or the drive for that matter to build it from the ground up... at my age that would be a big project for me to do.

I haven't decided if I'm going to go the Tuff Shed route though... right now our spare bedroom is my build room, its small, 10 x 8 ( actually its 11 x 9 if I recall ) with a double sliding closet, which takes up 2 feet in depth on the one wall... the wife wants to turn it into a guest bedroom, so I either make room in the garage, or do the Tuff Shed... it could turn out to be a decent man cave, LoL; ice chest and a Tv, she may not see me again


John M,

 

[Jaketab]

Trying to plan ahead for the servo and rudder arms. Going to use Hitec 7955 on everything except rudder. The control arms on the big Pitts are not much more than 1.25". So the question here - would 1" servo arms extend out enough to give moderate throw???
I've always been a believer in giving the servo the mechanical advantage and resolution. I'm not building the plane to be an exclusive 3D flyer.
On the rudder, the control arm is 3.125" in width. If I used a 2.25" double servo arm, (straight pull pull) at 45 degrees servo deflection will yield 30.6 degrees of rudder throw. Any opinions on using 1 Hitec 7950 on the rudder ????????

Thanks - J Tab

 

[acerc]

Yours is a different size than mine so I can't say if those lengths are good or not. But I can say I set up for moderate rates and used the minimum length to function. I also believe in letting the servo operate efficiently. You should be able to use the plans to measure whether the arms would be sufficient but yours has been so much different I would not swear to it. I also only used one servo for the rudder, same size on all control surfaces.

 

[Jaketab]

I believe the single 7950 would be OK on the rudder with a short servo arm. Only downfall would be no back up if the servo should fail.
The rudder on the Pitts is not that large.
Plan on using the Valach 210 on the Pitts. Tony Clark has the Mk II version posted on their web site.
http://www.toni-clark.com/index_en.htm
It boasts a stronger CNC crankcase and encapsulated valve train rods.
Hoping Vogelsang can get one for me this spring.
Video of my current bird below.

J Tab

 

[Wacobipe]

Trying to plan ahead for the servo and rudder arms. Going to use Hitec 7955 on everything except rudder. The control arms on the big Pitts are not much more than 1.25". So the question here - would 1" servo arms extend out enough to give moderate throw???
I've always been a believer in giving the servo the mechanical advantage and resolution. I'm not building the plane to be an exclusive 3D flyer.
On the rudder, the control arm is 3.125" in width. If I used a 2.25" double servo arm, (straight pull pull) at 45 degrees servo deflection will yield 30.6 degrees of rudder throw. Any opinions on using 1 Hitec 7950 on the rudder ????????

Thanks - J Tab

I agree w th you general approach and also set things up for max mechanical advantage of the servo. The one area I would do differently is that I always set my rudder pull-pull system up with as close to exactly the same length horns on rudder and servo as possible. Doing so eliminates the slop in the wires of a pull-pull system and gives better geometry.

If that makes for a poor servo throw condition, you can always hook your servo up on a servo tray such that the servo has different length arms to the intermediate arm on bearings...with the intermediate arm being identical to the rudder. That's a confusing statement so let me try to find an image out of my Raven build thread to post here...

 

[Wacobipe]

My f$%*#ng iPad won't let me save the image from my own thread so the best I can do is a link...

http://www.giantscalenews.com/attachments/secraft-rudder-tray-1-jpg.42908/