Power boards/expanders really needed?

[capthis]

This is just me but I wouldn't use anything but a fail-on style switch. The reason being is if vibration gets to the internals in the switch it can wreak havoc on them. Some people get away with it for years but it's cheap insurance to assure your airplane doesn't lose power if you decided to use switches for power. There are people I know that simply plug the battery directly into their receivers because that's the only way that they feel safe with doing. It's all up to you though, if you feel safe with a mechanical switch with mechanical contacts then by all means keep using them

What options do I have for fail on switches? I know Fromeco Wolverine. which are good but expensive. Others?

 

[Bunky.F.Knuckle]

JR E Switch.

http://www.taildraggerrc.com/jr-e-switch-failsafe-switch-with-deans-ultra/

 

[JoeT]

What options do I have for fail on switches? I know Fromeco Wolverine. which are good but expensive. Others?

http://boomarc.com/en/dual-battery-failsafe-switches

 

[acerc]

I think you are worrying to much about it. There are numerous point's that can fail just as easy, such as where the wires come out of servo connections, but they rarely do. Buy descent stuff, hook it all up and go play.

 

[capthis]

I think you are worrying to much about it. There are numerous point's that can fail just as easy, such as where the wires come out of servo connections, but they rarely do. Buy descent stuff, hook it all up and go play.

I agree but not being an electrical engineer by trade I can learn from those that are and then be able to make a more informed decision.

 

[Terryscustom]

Get some powersafe Rx's, and forget all about power expanders and that other hooplah.....

Buy the most channels you can.

+1 for Bunky

 

[Terryscustom]

I agree but not being an electrical engineer by trade I can learn from those that are and then be able to make a more informed decision.

I tend to think too much into stuff as well, but I can tell you through my research and hundreds of flights of proof the following system WORKS. Unless you fly exactly like Jase Dussia you will not have trouble. I can do full throttle rolling loops with my 43% Extra ARF consecutively and NOT loose power.
I'll also add a little video here that was only a couple weeks ago as an example of a 125" airplane, 8 servos other than throttle and choke, Power safe AR12120, Spektrum onboard balanced (in TX), dual 5000mah Pulse Lipo's and all HD wires from Taildragger RC.

First I will outline my setup for ALL 35-43% planes:
- AR12120 on 40%, AR9110 on 35%
- Use the stock switch that comes with it DO NOT RUN YOUR CURRENT THROUGH YOUR SWITCHES!!!
- Tech Aero Ultra IBEC for ignitions
- Pulse LiPo (have too felt the sag on A123's, love them but I can get them to sag)
- MKS777 / 380 servos are my new standard
- 20g silicone wires from TDRC only.

The key things here that people cheat on tend to be servos, (don't skimp, use good quality HV servos), switches, batteries and wires. All these things keep your plane flying for years, best not to skimp.

Next the switches, I hate to knock switches but look at them with your Electrical experience and tell me they are not ALL junk! You have heavy gauge wires coming out of the bats, they likely go into 20-22g wires into the switch, then come out and go do the RX. Tell me that is not a HUGE bottleneck for current?!?! With the power safe there is nothing going through them, they create a short just like your bind plug (as a matter of fact you can use a bind plug as a switch). I have lost a plane due to one of those "high dollar" switches you mentioned....last regular switch I've run.

Only reason to run a power expander for "average Joe" pilot up to a 43% is if you use Futaba (they seem to have all kindsa problems) or something like Hitec that only runs up to 9 channels. Running Y's or matchboxes is the same thing as using that crappy switch we talked about earlier. Hope this helps?

Both of these, pwer

On this one I got on it a little more after the 2:00 minute mark.

 

[JAG]

@Terryscustom On the A123 packs you saw sag on, were the low C rated packs? I would think a high C rating, like a 30C rated pack, you would be less prone to sag. I would like to know based on your experience.

 

[Terryscustom]

@Terryscustom On the A123 packs you saw sag on, were the low C rated packs? I would think a high C rating, like a 30C rated pack, you would be less prone to sag. I would like to know based on your experience.

All genuine A123's have the same C rating as they all come from the same factory, as for the "Life" batteries in soft pack, no thinks, they are junk. Tried a few and quickly stopped.
I only used packs from NoBs, Ed Nano and TDRC, all "real" A123 packs. I'm not bashing them, they are great but esspecially in a 40% getting wild you can feel the difference. Some of that difference may be that the servos on different since you're not using HV servos with those typically and if you are you are robbing yourself as well.

What I see since switching to actual HV with HV servos and Lipo power supply is actually more power, less mah used per flight and no matter how stupid I get I can't get that saggy feeling from them.

So again, not bashing them, they are awesome and they last for like 10 years if you take care of them, just once you start beating on a larger 35-43% airframe quite a bit, you can actually tell the difference.

 

[JAG]

Interesting, good info. Thanks for sharing.

My packs are LIFE and are rated at 30C, but who really knows.