TonyHallo
150cc
It has been a while since the last update, 8 days at the beach, 2 days at Joe Nall, 3 days cutting grass, 1 "honey do" project, 1 day helping out my brother at the auto repair, not much time for the Champ.
I'm using CB Associates hinges for the Champ, the leaves are 1/16" thick. On the horizontal stabilizer the hinge slots were cut in the spline before the spruce was glued on so it was just a matter of shimming the slots with 1/64" plywood scraps, the rudder was done in the same manner. I needed to cut two 1/16" slots in the vertical stabilizer post. To do so a Robart 1/8" drill bushing was shimmed with K&S tubing to make a 1/16" drill bushing. A series of 1/16" holes were drilled in the spruce tail post using the Robart drill fixture, then the holes were cut and filed to make the two slots.
The horizontal stabilizer rear mount is made from 1/16" aluminum sheet and a piece of 1/2" aluminum tube. The parts were jointed together with Harris Al- Braze 1070. The filler wire melts about 50 degrees below the melting temperature of the base metal so sometimes the hole mess just melts, I got lucky today on the first try, did melt the edge of one of the sheets but not an issue.. The mount is inset into the rudder post and attached with #4 flat head screws. The front mount will set the incidence and square the surface. I plan to make and install the flying wires before the front mount is glued in, this will insure everything is in the right spot. The triangle opening behind the trailing edge houses the elevator horn and gets covered in with a .013" aluminum sheet.
I'm using CB Associates hinges for the Champ, the leaves are 1/16" thick. On the horizontal stabilizer the hinge slots were cut in the spline before the spruce was glued on so it was just a matter of shimming the slots with 1/64" plywood scraps, the rudder was done in the same manner. I needed to cut two 1/16" slots in the vertical stabilizer post. To do so a Robart 1/8" drill bushing was shimmed with K&S tubing to make a 1/16" drill bushing. A series of 1/16" holes were drilled in the spruce tail post using the Robart drill fixture, then the holes were cut and filed to make the two slots.
The horizontal stabilizer rear mount is made from 1/16" aluminum sheet and a piece of 1/2" aluminum tube. The parts were jointed together with Harris Al- Braze 1070. The filler wire melts about 50 degrees below the melting temperature of the base metal so sometimes the hole mess just melts, I got lucky today on the first try, did melt the edge of one of the sheets but not an issue.. The mount is inset into the rudder post and attached with #4 flat head screws. The front mount will set the incidence and square the surface. I plan to make and install the flying wires before the front mount is glued in, this will insure everything is in the right spot. The triangle opening behind the trailing edge houses the elevator horn and gets covered in with a .013" aluminum sheet.
