IMAC The new Dalton 300 SP / 330

[orthobird]

Have not been able to get too much done, but I was able to sheet the canister tunnel.

After I get this all done, i will line the inside of this area with 3/32" balsa strips, so that the covering will have a much better substrate to adhere to. Monokote adheres much better to balsa over ply.

I used epoxy resin with carbon fiber tow on the junction of the balsa sheets/corners, so that it has a strong joint and it gets sealed off.

 

[orthobird]

I have also installed two small rails for the installation of the MPX plug assembly.

 

[orthobird]

I have also made a tray for the radio, I have yet to glue this on. Still planning on this step.

this will go between F2 and F3.

Reason being, I want to make sure, once I glue the fuselage sides on, if this is in place, that I can still install the MPX plugs and be able to get the servo leads connected in there.

 

[Dirt]

Looking good Cam!!

 

[orthobird]

Looking good Cam!!

Thank you, is this Bobby?
Reason i ask, looks like you have a new account? Used to be dirt doctor. Just wondering.

 

[orthobird]

Was able to finish the fin/rudder. Only need to cut it out.

 

[orthobird]

started to look at how will the tail wheel be installed. I know the kit came with a big block of balsa. I asked Tony, if this was for the tail section and he told me yes, so I was very close to knowing what the big balsa block was for. It was not in any of the other kits I had built before.



I am using a White Rose Tail Wheel assembly with the carbon fiber spring. This will be a Tiller arm set up. I really do not like the springs pull-pull due to increased stress on the rudder servos during flight. The servos have to constantly be fighting the springs. Whereas, a tiller arm, the only time the rudder servos are working for it is during taxiing on the ground. In the air, it does not increase work load on the rudder servos.

I am looking here at where the position will be, but It will have to be further back than this.

One or two weeks ago, I glued in a 1/4" thick hardwood ply to the bottom ply of the cross brace plate, and it went in tight against the right and left stringer.

I also pinned this plate in:

I placed the foam sheeted belly pan in place and then placed the block, to get an idea of where it will go.

I have drawn out my center line, to get an idea of the alignment on the tail wheel.

just another view, but, time to go to work. I am on call this weekend, and there is an elderly man in the hospital came in late last night with a hip fracture. SO I am off to the hospital soon.

 

[reyn3545]

Don't you just hate it when work gets in the way of a good build?

I used to watch those surgery shows every time they came on.... Fascinating work that you guys do.

 

[orthobird]

Thank you Mike, yesterday was not too bad. I did do one surgery, the other patient had a problem but it was not my field. They ended up having to call a General Surgeon and a spine surgeon.
After that, I went to our club and flew 3 times.

 

[orthobird]

got some more done this morning. I am taking my sweet time on this one. No rush here.


Here is that balsa block: I am getting an idea of what I have to do to it.

here is after I shaped it down some. I will not shape it down more. This is just to get an idea on what I have to do for the tail wheel mount. Once I glue on the belly pan then i will finish this tail area off. For now, I am making parts getting ready for that step.

Here is my manufactured tail wheel mount. I wanted to keep weight down, so instead of making it of solid plywood laminated, I tried to make it lighter.

nothing has been glued on, this is just getting an idea of what I have to do.

Here, I drilled thru the mount and into the tail of the fuselage. I am using 6-32 screws.

I have now drilled thru, and installed the blind nuts for the 6-32 screws.

I will use scrap 1/2" thick balsa around this area, to fill it in, and sand it down. When the time comes, Will do this all later. My biggest goal right now was to make the tail wheel mount and install the blind nuts, since this would be much more difficult to do, once the sides are sheeted.

One last point: The blind nuts are in now. But I will remove the screws and the tail wheel spring and the tail wheel mount I made, and then, obtain a 1/4" thick plywood strip, about 3/4" wide. I will make 3 countersinking areas on them, to clear the face of the blind nut, and then glue this on from the inside. This will assure that these blind nuts do not pop off years later. once that strip cures, then I pass a 6-32 tap thru from the bottom to make sure it clears any glue out.