The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread

[acerc]

My exhaust parts from Vogelsang have shipped, I expected it to be weeks. I have a question for someone better than I, which is you guys. I have been braising these exhaust parts together which makes for a real pain when needed to separate, ended up cutting it out in pieces. Is there a form of solder that can handle the heat of exhaust that I could use instead of braising?
Pic shows the joint being assembled.

 

[acerc]

Sorry, double post, site is acting goofy on my end.

 

[Snoopy1]

Sorry, double post, site is acting goofy on my end.

Do-It-Yourself Header Parts

KS made do-it-yourself header parts. Tubing In three diameter sizes. 22mm, 25mm, & 28mm. Stainless Steel 90° bend 180° bend Long piece of straight-tube ca. 200 mm Short piece of straight-tube ca. 60 mm Flanges with and without stubs. DA 35/70 w/stub 22mm diameter DA 60/120 w/stub 25mm...

www.desertaircraft.com

I have used this solder from DA. It works for exhausts and I have been able to take it apart but you really need to put the heat to it.

 

[Snoopy1]

Well needed to make some servo boxes to mont the servos as far forward as I can to minimize the the requirement for nose weight. Will glue them in place and do another CG check.
Order some special carbon push rods from CST They are lightweight and rigid.

 

[dhal22]

Between big plumber’s torches and a cutting torch rig (with a rosebud tip) I can put heat to anything……. I’ve silver soldered 4” and 6” copper, silver soldered requires red hot pipe and fittings..

 

[acerc]

I have a mini torch, putting it together is no problem, it is separating after installation, no room to heat the header up. The set-up requires a box end wrench on the header, so instead of a two into one I'll just go with duals. The header requires removing the valve covers, a tappet, and a pushrod to get the box end on. I have been scouring the web and think silver soldering is my only option.

 

[TonyHallo]

My exhaust parts from Vogelsang have shipped, I expected it to be weeks. I have a question for someone better than I, which is you guys. I have been braising these exhaust parts together which makes for a real pain when needed to separate, ended up cutting it out in pieces. Is there a form of solder that can handle the heat of exhaust that I could use instead of braising?
Pic shows the joint being assembled.

Are you brazing rods like from Lowes? If so you need about 1500F to braze, silver brazing filler such as Harris Safety-Silv 45 melts around 1200 f so you can reheat the joint and separate the parts. You can also use a propane torch which is easier to control the temperature and prevent overheating. You also need a flux such as Stay-Silv black flux. I find the black flux works better than the white.

 

[acerc]

Are you brazing rods like from Lowes? If so you need about 1500F to braze, silver brazing filler such as Harris Safety-Silv 45 melts around 1200 f so you can reheat the joint and separate the parts. You can also use a propane torch which is easier to control the temperature and prevent overheating. You also need a flux such as Stay-Silv black flux. I find the black flux works better than the white.

I have been using an Alpha Fry kit that contains silver, propane torch I have won't touch it, have to use the mini torch. But I have been looking for the Alph kit and don't see it any longer so I may be going with the Stay Silv from Grainger.

 

[acerc]

Tony, are you saying a propane torch will work with the Stay-Silv 45? Of course, the propane torch I have is not a focused torch but more of a broad flame like used in plumbing.

 

[TonyHallo]

That's what I use, a plumbers torch. I use propane for small light stuff like exhaust, on heavy steel parts I use MAPP gas. The acetylene torch is too hot and destroys the flux. The 5/8 " tube below was silver brazed with a plumbers propane torch. Both the slip joints and the butt Y.

I just bought a troy ounce on Amazon for $50.