The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread

[Bluepilot2003]

Worked on the control horns and landing gear on my new 104" ARS!

 

[stangflyer]

Besides working on the Behemoth Yak (2), I found time to get the Brand New 3w 106cs mounted on the Pilot Edge. What an undertaking, but it's done. Dang, bending those KS Comfort Headers is a chore. Turned out pretty good though. I did get the Edge out for 5 flights today. Love the "dub" 106 twin. Just really not certain about the canisters though. I think they are just not enough flow for the beast twin. So tomorrow, ordering up two brand new MTW 75 rear dumps. Here are a few progress photos of what I have done to the Edge.

 

[Jetpainter]

Besides working on the Behemoth Yak (2), I found time to get the Brand New 3w 106cs mounted on the Pilot Edge. What an undertaking, but it's done. Dang, bending those KS Comfort Headers is a chore. Turned out pretty good though. I did get the Edge out for 5 flights today. Love the "dub" 106 twin. Just really not certain about the canisters though. I think they are just not enough flow for the beast twin. So tomorrow, ordering up two brand new MTW 75 rear dumps. Here are a few progress photos of what I have done to the Edge.

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Looks nice Rob! What canisters are on it now?

 

[stangflyer]

Looks nice Rob! What canisters are on it now?

They are KS 5. Or according to DA, KS 1011's. They say "60" on the end of them. They are supposed to be for 100cc engines. But honestly, for a DA 100 they would probably do just fine. The 106 cs having a 40% larger transfer port probably is what is causing the "anemic" feel. On the ground, it runs really strong. Stronger than any of my 111's or even my sons 120. But in the air, she is just not coming on like I feel it should. My sons 120 is actually stronger at some points. I really feel the difference is the MTW 75 rear dumps he is running. We'll see in a few days.

 

[AKNick]

After about 4 years and 11-12 gallons with my 71" slick I think my plug cap is worn out on the DLE35. Pretty dirty inside and the spring and rubber cap seem compromised. I put it back together along with a new fuel tank and it will only run at idle for a short amount of time. It could be my new pickup clunk... I blew some air into the tank through the vent line and it had to build up a fair amount of pressure before fuel came out the detached outlet line to to carb. Curious if these flow master clunks are not very efficient?

Top is the flowmaster from eflight
Middle is the fortitude I had previously
Bottom is a TDRC which isn't filtered. I believe.
Wanted a felt version so I put the flowmaster in a TDRC tank with viton line.

Ordered a new cap and ignition.

Might try and do a pressure test with the different clunks to see if there is a noticeable difference.


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Well I did a little research and one fellow claims he was getting air bubbles through his Flowmaster Felt Clunk with it under 2" of fuel. As someone else mentioned when there is liquid flow resistance under a vacuum it will create bubbles. The best way I can relate is a boat prop spinning fast. interesting enough I installed one in my cub (VVRC21) and it was leaning out at high rpm to the point of almost dying (note it was running well prior to swapping out the clunk and it seemed to want to do it WOT only and I was in a climb), I thought I had it too lean, when in fact there was most likely bubbles causing it to run lean at high rpm/flow rate. So with my DLE35 which has a higher flow rate it wont even want to leave idle except for a second. Might clean up the fortitude one and put it back in!! Once again, not really confirmed, but sounds a lot like my scenario.

Anyone here use the WWRC ceramic clunks? There suppose to be quite nice?

http://www.wrongwayrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=76_92&product_id=213

 

[49dimes]

Rob......Do you think shortening your headers an inch or so might help ? Cans have their "sweet spot" too not just pipes.

They are KS 5. Or according to DA, KS 1011's. They say "60" on the end of them. They are supposed to be for 100cc engines. But honestly, for a DA 100 they would probably do just fine. The 106 cs having a 40% larger transfer port probably is what is causing the "anemic" feel. On the ground, it runs really strong. Stronger than any of my 111's or even my sons 120. But in the air, she is just not coming on like I feel it should. My sons 120 is actually stronger at some points. I really feel the difference is the MTW 75 rear dumps he is running. We'll see in a few days.

 

[49dimes]

Well I did a little research and one fellow claims he was getting air bubbles through his Flowmaster Felt Clunk with it under 2" of fuel. As someone else mentioned when there is liquid flow resistance under a vacuum it will create bubbles. The best way I can relate is a boat prop spinning fast. interesting enough I installed one in my cub (VVRC21) and it was leaning out at high rpm to the point of almost dying (note it was running well prior to swapping out the clunk and it seemed to want to do it WOT only and I was in a climb), I thought I had it too lean, when in fact there was most likely bubbles causing it to run lean at high rpm/flow rate. So with my DLE35 which has a higher flow rate it wont even want to leave idle except for a second. Might clean up the fortitude one and put it back in!! Once again, not really confirmed, but sounds a lot like my scenario.

Anyone here use the WWRC ceramic clunks? There suppose to be quite nice?

http://www.wrongwayrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=76_92&product_id=213

I have used the "ceramic" before and had no issues but had it in a plane I sold and did not fly it all that much (20 flights maybe??). Now I just use what has always worked best for me and that is a regular heavy clunk and a large volume type filter before the carb. Have hundreds of flights and years of engine operation without the first fuel line / filter / pick up problem. I do run a filter on my gas can too and take every effort to keep my can as clean and free from debris inside and out. I have heard some pretty undesireable things about felt clunks over time when using them for the first line of protection only.

 

[stangflyer]

Rob......Do you think shortening your headers an inch or so might help ? Cans have their "sweet spot" too not just pipes.

I actually have considered it. But honestly I have no idea what I am doing when it comes to that kind of stuff. (Never done it before) So I have no idea where to start. I am also afraid if I shorten them too much, I may lose what I already have.

The thought I have right now is based on past experience. The MTW 75's did a really awesome job on both my DLE 111's. The longer length/smaller diameter on my PAU Extra seemed to work better than the shorter length/larger diameter on my previous Edge. Ok, that is in my knowledge bank for reference. Next enter stage left my sons 120 on the longer length/smaller diameter 75's on his 330. That motor just sings. However, he tells me it appears the headers have been shortened a little. The normal length headers on my 157 and 170, as well as my 212...they all perform wonderfully. So my thought process is this. The KS Comfort Headers are pretty long. I think the plan of attack is going to be to shorten them 1/2" then add the MTW longer length/smaller diameter 75's. Unless someone with more experience and more knowledge can chime in and help me that is. As I said, I'm a little reluctant to start "whacking" away at those spendy headers. Dang things are $98.00 bucks a piece. But I also know that 106 runs like a clock on the ground. She just seems a little anemic in the air when the prop unloads. Really hoping the shorter headers and the 75's will be the ticket.

I am seriously open to suggestions guys.

 

[thurmma]

I actually have considered it. But honestly I have no idea what I am doing when it comes to that kind of stuff. (Never done it before) So I have no idea where to start. I am also afraid if I shorten them too much, I may lose what I already have.

The thought I have right now is based on past experience. The MTW 75's did a really awesome job on both my DLE 111's. The longer length/smaller diameter on my PAU Extra seemed to work better than the shorter length/larger diameter on my previous Edge. Ok, that is in my knowledge bank for reference. Next enter stage left my sons 120 on the longer length/smaller diameter 75's on his 330. That motor just sings. However, he tells me it appears the headers have been shortened a little. The normal length headers on my 157 and 170, as well as my 212...they all perform wonderfully. So my thought process is this. The KS Comfort Headers are pretty long. I think the plan of attack is going to be to shorten them 1/2" then add the MTW longer length/smaller diameter 75's. Unless someone with more experience and more knowledge can chime in and help me that is. As I said, I'm a little reluctant to start "whacking" away at those spendy headers. Dang things are $98.00 bucks a piece. But I also know that 106 runs like a clock on the ground. She just seems a little anemic in the air when the prop unloads. Really hoping the shorter headers and the 75's will be the ticket.

I am seriously open to suggestions guys.

How long are the headers? Maybe a shout out to KS with the length and what is going on will yield a good place to start

 

[Xpress]

Bottom is a TDRC which isn't filtered. I believe.

That's what I've used with my DA70, both my DA120's, and my ZDZ180 without a problem. No filtering, just a straight pass through. I filter my fuel twice before it enters the tank.