The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread

[Snoopy1]

I got a couple of the "Glitch Buster" capacitor's coming. Anyone know what's the best way to install them?

I was thinking "y" one on each elevator servo for they have the longest extensions at 36".

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Rule of thumb is place a capacitor as close to the load as possible.

 

[Snoopy1]

The engine in the background look's like the CRRC 55cc twin, I have a couple and they are great little engines.

Yes I believe you are correct that engine has seen better days. It has a lot of miles on it and been in quite a few planes I think it will be retired. But not sure.

 

[49dimes]

Rule of thumb is place a capacitor as close to the load as possible.

My thoughts as well too. I will also solder them in line and eliminate the connectors in the tail as well. Last time I flew my extra I had the right elevator servo "burp" and it forced the nose of the plane down. Nothing violent or sustained but it did bother me because if it had happened close to the ground I probably would not have to worry about it any more .

 

[Snoopy1]

My thoughts as well too. I will also solder them in line and eliminate the connectors in the tail as well. Last time I flew my extra I had the right elevator servo "burp" and it forced the nose of the plane down. Nothing violent or sustained but it did bother me because if it had happened close to the ground I probably would not have to worry about it any more .

How did you know that that was the problem.

 

[49dimes]

How did you know that that was the problem.

These things are telling me.

1) In the shop I was cycling the servos ( after the incident flight ) and noticed that both elevator servos did not travel as smooth as the rudder or aileron servos (running BB BLS H50B's on all surfaces ) and where bouncing back and forth rapidly during travel up and down.

2) The flight log showed no signs of signal loss or any significant data pack losses during that flight.

3) The flight log showed a peak amperage draw of 44 amps during that flight.

4) I inspected both elevator servo connectors and both were tight and secure. No loose wires either and I use connector "keepers" to boot.

5) Ruled out low signal voltage due to my experience with these servos and how the behave with that sort of problem. They stop working all together for a second or two or three! and that would have been a disaster.

 

[Alky6]

The fuse sides on the “new to me” focus pattern plane were delaminated, so I got them glued back together and got a throttle servo installed. Going to try out the Sullivan flex cable (the big stuff for surface linkages) on the throttle linkage. Had good success with it on past glow installations. Still need to secure the ends to lock it in place. — Any thoughts from the YS experts on the throttle linkage geometry? Similar to gas or more like glow being more linear?

 

[Snoopy1]

The fuse sides on the “new to me” focus pattern plane were delaminated, so I got them glued back together and got a throttle servo installed. Going to try out the Sullivan flex cable (the big stuff for surface linkages) on the throttle linkage. Had good success with it on past glow installations. Still need to secure the ends to lock it in place. — Any thoughts from the YS experts on the throttle linkage geometry? Similar to gas or more like glow being more linear?

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All the YS I have the throttle are pretty linear. If I may suggest unless you are flying competition or your field has very strict sound rules just run a short straight pipe out the side. You will never get better performance than the short pipe. I run the short pipe on all my YS engines and have never had a complaint or asked to shut it down. At any fields I have visited. Saves weight and runs better.

 

[49dimes]

The fuse sides on the “new to me” focus pattern plane were delaminated, so I got them glued back together and got a throttle servo installed. Going to try out the Sullivan flex cable (the big stuff for surface linkages) on the throttle linkage. Had good success with it on past glow installations. Still need to secure the ends to lock it in place. — Any thoughts from the YS experts on the throttle linkage geometry? Similar to gas or more like glow being more linear?

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Agree....... once correctly tuned throttle response is fairly linear....... You will also find that your idle setting is going to change with heat and weather using that type of control rod. It expands and contracts a bit with weather changes and you will see it in the engine. Just add or subtract throttle trim as necessary. My last YS experience was with the FZ 175. I ran it with a small Pro Flo Canister. Did not hinder performance at all and really helped make the engine run smooth. Throttle response was the same as with an open header. Sound was very pleasing and quiet.

 

[Alky6]

Agree....... once correctly tuned throttle response is fairly linear....... You will also find that your idle setting is going to change with heat and weather using that type of control rod. It expands and contracts a bit with weather changes and you will see it in the engine. Just add or subtract throttle trim as necessary. My last YS experience was with the FZ 175. I ran it with a small Pro Flo Canister. Did not hinder performance at all and really helped make the engine run smooth. Throttle response was the same as with an open header. Sound was very pleasing and quiet.

View attachment 104376

All the YS I have the throttle are pretty linear. If I may suggest unless you are flying competition or your field has very strict sound rules just run a short straight pipe out the side. You will never get better performance than the short pipe. I run the short pipe on all my YS engines and have never had a complaint or asked to shut it down. At any fields I have visited. Saves weight and runs better.

Thanks for the info gents. Snoopy, I do plan to fly it in competitions, so will leave the tuned pipe on it.
@49dimes figured that temp might cause some problems, but agree that I will just have to do some trim adjustments to dial it in depending upon weather. If it gets too aggravating, I'll do something different. Want to also use this for some additional seat time for precision flying without having to drag out the 35% JTEC everytime.

Further, I have been wanting to build a pattern plane from plans for a while. This will help me get familiar with the "norm" so I don't feel like I am reinventing the wheel. Also - not sure if I am going to use a DA 35 or the YS 185cdi zero in the future build. Curious to see how the YS performs

 

[49dimes]

Thanks for the info gents. Snoopy, I do plan to fly it in competitions, so will leave the tuned pipe on it.
@49dimes figured that temp might cause some problems, but agree that I will just have to do some trim adjustments to dial it in depending upon weather. If it gets too aggravating, I'll do something different. Want to also use this for some additional seat time for precision flying without having to drag out the 35% JTEC everytime.

Further, I have been wanting to build a pattern plane from plans for a while. This will help me get familiar with the "norm" so I don't feel like I am reinventing the wheel. Also - not sure if I am going to use a DA 35 or the YS 185cdi zero in the future build. Curious to see how the YS performs

Like'd the "Hyde" mount on your plane . Best to you on your "pattern" endeavor.